What’s the scoop here? Why is it that even with lots of money and chefs who clearly know how to produce three-star food, American restaurants still can’t measure up to their French counterparts?
The context is the new Michelin guide, and whether four New York restaurants deserved three stars. (BTW, even if you think they were deserving, as I do, count the relative number of stars in NYC vs. Paris; NYC does top San Sebastian, Spain, but not by so much). His commentators make many good points, most of all about differences in ingredient supply networks.
The better pure ingredients in Paris include amazing cheese shops, perfect bread, and fresher strawberries. On the macro scale, this translates into superior haute cuisine.
America, in contrast, excels in multi-dimensionality. Move away from refined Michelin-style cooking, and New York City is usually better than Paris. We have better Indian food, Columbian food, Afghan food, Chinese food, sushi, burger joints, street pretzels, and so on. Yet there is probably no single cuisine where NYC is #1 in the world, precisely because American ingredients are not up to scratch.
It is no accident that France specializes in uni-dimensional food competition, whereas the United States scatters its culinary energies in many directions. By choosing food networks which emphasize speed, reliability, and cheapness over perfection, the U.S. makes possible many more ethnic cuisines, and it also guarantees a better shot at cheap prices. In short, New York offers more choice.
So what do we need to do to increase the quality
of our ingredients?
Easy phil: If you’re interested in increasing the quality of haute cuisine, eat haute cuisine more frequently, but spend more time (read as money) at those restaurants you think are the very best.
By doing so (and particularly if you get several thousand people to go along with you), you’ll be creating incentives for new haute cuisine restaurants to open up and for the restaurants to improve their quality.
I, however, will be patronizing the current cheap variety, not just because I want even more variety and wouldn’t mind more cheap food, but because I actually like it more (in terms of utility I think I get FAR more utility out of 40 $6 buffets spread over eight weeks than a single $240 meal, but to each their own).
Down in orange county, california, I can get really good ethnic food (in the strip malls, as a recent book & review noted). The only slight problem is that the food centers are 5-10 miles apart. I can walk to good burger or mexican or central american, but it’s a longer trip to vietnamese or chinese or korean or …
Out here I’d also sing praises of the simple breakfast burrito, those poor french guys …
(buffets jody? always go for the cook-on-order. $6 in the strip malls takes you a long ways.)
The best cheap food in the world is in the metropolitan areas of China. They don’t have the international diversity we do in the US, but the in-country
diversity is amazing in and of itself. Food in Hunan is very different from that in Henan, which is very different from that in Sichuan, and so on…
They also have very fresh ingredients. You can buy fresh produce of amazing variety literally right on the street.
You can eat a very good, multi-course meal, served by an army of waitresses, for $5. A meal fit for a king can be had for $10-15.
I would love to hear an economist on the economics of produce: Are tasteless tomatoes welfare-optimal? If not, why do we have them?
I would think that the market tends to concentrate on the characteristics which are easily measurable. So size and colour improve, while taste gets worse. The market for lemons, applied to lemons. Is that fair?
If so, why do the French escape the same forces?
Living on the eastern edge of Marin County, California, I am within a half-hour or one-hour drive of organic farming of baby vegetables, fresh oyster harvests, cheese-making, vineyards and wineries, and coastal fisheries of this county and its neighbors: Napa, Sonoma, San Mateo, San Fracisco, etc. Perhaps some part of our large country lack immediate access to premium ingredience, but I think my neighborhood can match France on all matters of fine ingredience and cuisine. While truffles may be an exception, perhaps our wild Pacific Salmon more than makes up for this deficiency.
Correction to my previous post. Paris DOES have plenty other types of cuisines.
I’ve had some wonderful French meals in France, but also one in Queensland (Australia) and one in Hampshire (England).
I’d like to see a bit more rigor in these determinations before trying to use them as evidence in our cuisine wars. How about a blindfold test in an Iron Chef-style face-off, over many iterations and dishes? And by which set of biases are we supposed to be looking at this? Every expatriate thinks you can’t get high-quality, “genuine” cooking outside their home country. Frankly, too, when it comes to ingredients, the native kind isn’t always better: the water may taste different simply because it’s cleaner, and so might the veggies. Are you marked down simply because the tomato didn’t actually have any dust from the cart on it?
I’m obviously just a sushi and beer guy, though, so what do I know.
The thing is that all the food in Paris now tastes like burned automobiles.
“I would think that the market tends to concentrate on the characteristics which are easily measurable.”
I would argue, rather, that the market concentrates on those things which are in the greatest demand. In France that certainly includes the “fixin’s” for haute cuisine…
If I had to posit a partial explanation it would probably include tourism in the mix. Tourists, especially of the international breed, tend to spend much more per meal than locals (by my casual observation). Eating out in a foreign country is an opportunity to lavishly indulge oneself in a foreign lifestyle (not to mention the fact that limited knowledge of local eateries constrains the set of eating possibilities for many to the high end Zagat and Michelin rated restaurants). Additionally, insufficient knowledge of local pricing and the minor difficulty of exchange rates most likely further increases the inelasticity of tourist demand. If I am not mistaken, France is the king of international tourist destinations (at least relative to GDP) so there should be more extravegant spenders per meal there. On the other hand, the United States’ tourism industry, while large in magnitude, is less impressive when compared to GDP or put in per capita terms (once again I’m not looking at the numbers as I speak but if I remember correctly the tourism numbers for France are comparable to those of the much larger U.S.) The U.S. market is also quite diffuse with tourists spread accross a large geographic mass with widely varying attractions. Additionally, many of the most popular tourist destinations in the U.S. (read New York, D.C., Orlando) do not have well defined local cuisines (delicatessens are great but not a venue where you are likely to sit down for an expensive night of dining). I don’t travel to France to eat Thai, why should I expect the French to travel to New York to eat at Italian, Japanese, or French restaurants. Our immigrant culture has brought us endless variety at the expense of a unique culinary identity. The few truely unique local quisines in the U.S. often present obvious reasons for not showing up in Zagat. Take for instance Southern and Southwestern quisines. Both owe much of their development to poverty and the underclass (African slaves in the South, Latinos and Native Americans in the Southwest) and are still often associated with the less wealthy. Tourists don’t often travel so that they can eat like the poor and both of these cuisines have only relatively recently been addressed by high end urban chefs.
Agreed, the tourism explanation doesn’t explain the Japanese phenomenon but would could probably expose some likely influences. Maybe our love for the exotic and unique plays a role here. Japan is by far the wealthiest culture that Europeans and Americans might both consider exotic. Maybe Asian and Europen cuisines are just apples an oranges, not easily comparable by those who were brought up in one culture or the other. I don’t know. But it is an interesting question and I have gone on far too long about it. I must get back to econometrics. (BUT FOOD IS SO MUCH MORE FUN!)
KevinM,
New York probably is Number One for delis. However, Italy still easily beats anything in New York for pizza.
Jason Bullman,
Many high end cuisines were originally low end. Thus cajun was redneck truckstop food before Jean-Paul Prudhomme made it fashionable and on a par with the creole (who can tell the difference now anyway?). Sushi was originally fed to poor construction workers in front of what is now the imperial palace in Tokyo during the Edo period. The whole business of it being raw was that they did not want to waste the time and effort of cooking the stuff on these lowly workers.
As for French cuisine, it was already admired as the best, in Europe at least, centuries before the age of mass tourism.
I might note that while high ratings are good for business, about the last thing ratings do is tell the average consumer what restaurant they’ll like better. I prefer Thai, Indian, Cajun, and a host of other bolder cuisines to the understated French tastes, but I doubt I’ll ever see the best of those restaurants getting three stars from the Francocentric Michelin raters. (My best meal on my trips to Phoenix thus far has been at a $10-a-plate Cajun place – and that includes the $100-a-plate Spanish restaurant out in Scottsdale that is often rated as one of the best in the area.)
Furthermore, raters don’t tend to take value into account. How many meals are truly worth that triple-digit-per-plate throwdown? I, personally, would rather eat at a very good fine dining estabishment here in Raleigh at a “mere” fifty bucks a pop (with wine) than to go to some big city and blow a couple hundred on a meal that’s barely – if any – better.
What, doesn’t pizza count? No better place in the world for it than NYC. (And if you think “gourmet” pizza is better, you don’t understand pizza.)
Noah Yetter,
Have you been to Italy? Pizza in its home country still beats any in New York.
Recently I spent a few days in New York City and had the best Turkish and Mexican food I’ve had in my life.
Of course, I’ve never been to Mexico City or Istanbul.
Afghan and Vietnamese and Ethiopian are all better in Washington than in New York. This is on the basis of the principal that political refugees from former pro-US regimes tend to flock to Washington when those regimes fall. Vietnamese are better in Paris (former colony effect) than anywhere in the US, but Ethiopian and possibly Afghan may be better in Washington than in Paris. Washington had the first Ethiopian restaurant in the western hemisphere.
French wine is certainly cheaper in France than in the US, although it can be harder to get non-EU wines there than in the US.
London is the best for Indian outside of India, again, the former colony effect.
Mexican food is better in California and certainly in Mexico City than in New York. Mexican food in Europe tends to be a joke, although it is now very faddish in many places, including Paris.
Barbecue is a matter of taste. To say that something non-barbecue that one eats in France is better than barbecue in the US is like saying that something non-escargot that one eats in the US is better than escargot in France. De gustibus non disputandam.
The reason that pizza is better in Italy than in New York, but that Katz’s deli in New York is at least as good as Goldenberg’s in Le Marais of Paris or the top joints in Tel Aviv is due to the original argument made by Tyler: pizza depends on freshness of ingredients, and those are better in Italy than in New York. OTOH, deli food is more a matter of processing than of freshness, and so New York’s high technical quality puts it in the running.
Wow, there is so much I disagree with here that I’ll try really hard to focus on just one or two things.
Firstly, while our mass-market ingredients are not on par with those of Europe, the chefs producing haute cuisine in this country most certainly do have that calibre of foodstuffs to work with. In fact, many have specialty farmers and artisans crafting ingredients explicitly to their specifications.
Secondly, geniuses do indeed become chefs. Look at Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller, et. al. Their genius has changed the face of dining in America.
Thirdly, I see this Michelin NY guide as another moneymaker with passable merit. Some worthy restaurants have been categorized incorrectly, while others have been given high marks. I take all of these guides with a grain of salt.
:::Climbing off soapbox:::
Oooops! I meant to say that there is a pretty high correlation between what one finds in the strictly popular voting based Zagat and the Guide Michelin in both New York and Paris.
“Columbian food”: please tell me you mean a special cuisine centered around Columbia University rather than Colombian food like empanadas, arepas, and papas.
Yes, the real quality difference in France vs. America is in the midrange “good” restaurants, which are WAY better in France. That sort of percolates up the quality chain; fancy expensive restaurants will simply not get patronized over good restaurants unless they are truly high quality. The market for really good food in America is so thin that it is not that hard to be a poseur and do OK financially.
And American “diversity” shouldn’t be overestimated — a lot of it is just different ways of arranging the same limited, crappy ingredients. If your chicken is tasteless it doesn’t matter too much whether it’s prepared in a burrito or stir fried in a wok. There’s more genuine diversity of flavor on a decent Paris bistro menu than in a whole block of typical American ethnic restaurants.
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