Why Americans are fatter

by on November 7, 2005 at 8:07 am in Food and Drink | Permalink

…Americans are not consuming more carbohydrates and trans fats because McDonald’s is super sizing our dinners.  Nor is our diet changing because Uncle Sam is subsidizing corn.  Rather, Americans are eating poorly because of a much more fundamental change in how we eat, specifically, the rise of snacking.  In fact, the amount we eat and drink between meals accounts for nearly all the growth in our consumption of carbohydrates and fats over the past thirty years.  Perhaps the biggest source of America’s recent weight gain and sugary diet is not so much the value "meal" but the simple snack.

…the free market has caught up with American food culture…With snacking, food is no longer about sustenance or even sociability: it is about amusement and self-medication.  We now eat to relieve our stress, to alleviate our boredom, or simply make ourselves feel better.  Food, in short, has become our drug of choice.  And the types of foods that are best suited for these psychological tasks are the very ones that cause us so many health problems, that is, sweets, fats, and refined carbohydrates.  In other words, the ultimate source of the changing American diet goes beyond McDonald’s, corn syrup, or the food pyramid; the ultimate source is the American way of life.

That is from J. Eric Oliver’s excellent Fat Politics: The Real Story Behind America’s Obesity Epidemic.  Here is Steve Levitt’s positive review.  Here is an LA Times review.

What about me? I am not going to exercise beyond my current levels of tennis, basketball, and walking are enough.  So I could become thinner in three ways.  First, I have recently switched from Raisin Bran to Spelts cereal in the morning.  Second, I prefer mineral water to Coke, but Szechuan restaurants do not serve the former.  I am waiting for Markets in Everything, and in the meantime I am not willing to give up Dan Dan Noodles or eat them with plain ice water or tea.  Third, in the last year I have started snacking on high-quality dark chocolate.  I have yet to decide whether I wish to fight this new source of additional calories…

Addendum: Comments are now open…

odograph November 7, 2005 at 10:48 am

I’m coming at this from a different angle, I was a fairly skinny engineer who took early semi-retirement to get outdoors and get in shape. I had spent too many years sitting in the same chair at the same desk.

I lean a little bit in the “paleo” direction, but not as extremely as some I’ve seen on the web. I try to take moderate excersice, pretty much daily, and eat to complement that. I may approximate three meals a day, but I think they tend to be lighter than general, and with somewhat healthy snacks in-between.

It seems to be working (for me) and now I’m backing off a little bit from the harder/longer bike rides and hikes. There doesn’t seem a point in approximating what would be an unusual, survival, eppisode in prehistory. Better, I think, to approximate a typical hunter/gatherer lifestyle.

Moderation in all things.

Dan Klein November 7, 2005 at 11:00 am

I have a sneaking suspicion that the fat trend has something to do with the Nazi war on smoking
I have heard that there is some evidence for this. Please address if you can.

Peter November 7, 2005 at 11:08 am

Odograph -
The economist and fitness expert Art DeVany has long advocated an “evolutionary fitness” diet, which largely restricts itself to the foods that would have been available prior to the advent of modern food technology. You can find more information at his site, arthurdevany.com

Dan -
Slate had a recent article on the tie-in between the decline in smoking and the rise in obesity. You should be able to find it in the archives.

Michael November 7, 2005 at 11:29 am

If the anti-smoking campaign contributes to fatter Americans, is it simply because all of our social disapprobation is focused on those nasty smokers, and we have nothing left over for over-eaters? Could it be related to the fact that over-eaters can at least feel good in that they don’t smoke?

thelonious_nick November 7, 2005 at 11:45 am

I would bet that Szechuan restaurant serves tea…

odograph November 7, 2005 at 11:57 am

BTW. have you noticed that fit people, and heavier people, tend to “school” together like fish?

If I drive to “apple country” where the theme is hot baked pies, I see lots of unfit, heavy, people. It strikes me that “drive and eat” is a dangerous pattern to fall into.

On the other hand, if I go on a Sierra Club conditioning hike (recommended), I see people of all shapes and sizes … but all fit. Hiking with friendly people might be a good pattern.

Maybe the economic term “value networks” applies here.

Richard Bellamy November 7, 2005 at 12:12 pm

I find that, economically speaking, I am nowhere near the “marginal snacker.” Last night, craving something sweet hours after dinner, with no snacks in the house, and unable to find my car keys, I walked approximately two miles to pay five dollars for an overpriced ice cream cone (Coldstone’s Creamery).

I expended about triple both the time and money that I reasonably should have in “normal” conditions, and yet had no second thoughts as I was doing it.

I am in the iterim stage where I do not feel that I am overweight, but am no longer exactly the same size as my wardrobe. I am learning that ‘new wardrobe’ may be more cost effective than ‘diet’ at this point.

David S. Culbertson November 7, 2005 at 12:35 pm

I’ve looked at this issue a lot. I think that High Fructose corn syrup plays a big role, since it allows you to consume more (i.e., take in more calories) before your body says “enough sugars!” The fact is, most people could not drink a 20-oz coke if it used real sugar as the sweetener. As we all know, 20 oz soda bottles are now the standard. I think they even existed 25 years ago (I only recall 16 “mega size bottles” from my childhood). I’ve just begun to see 24-oz bottle showing up. Staying slim in the future will continue to take will-power!

Scott November 7, 2005 at 2:56 pm

Fatness certainly is interesting. I doubt any one lifestyle change is responsible. One thought I had that is not frequently expressed is that all of the focus on low-fat, high calorie foods or a preference for convenient meals has contributed significantly to fatness. If I eat a meal or snack of either sort, I find myself hungry again soon and likely to snack after my blood sugar goes back down & the easily digested food is cleared out. Eating things that seem bad for me in moderate amounts, like meat w/ potatoes with gravy, peanut butter, or even healthy stuff like hearty grains keeps me from being hungry later. I find this to be more true in the evening when I am often at home. At work I am less likely to snack.

Walt Kania November 7, 2005 at 3:30 pm

Fascinating how the ‘what and how to eat’ question is very much like religion. Very strong opinions, little hard evidence, except for ‘It works for me.’ And ‘what you do is stupid.’

e40 November 7, 2005 at 3:55 pm

Eat three times a day, no more. That’s right, eat your dessert right after dinner (or lunch). Don’t over eat ever. Don’t drink soda, just water. In between meals drink lots of water.

With that simple recipe, it’s pretty hard to be overweight. I was not considered overweight before I had to go on this regime (because of acid reflux), and I lost 10-15 lbs (I’m 6’2″, 163 lbs right now).

Btw, I never smoked, either.

Slocum November 7, 2005 at 5:09 pm

in the last year I have started snacking on high-quality dark chocolate. I have yet to decide whether I wish to fight this new source of additional calories…

I love dark chocolate but am not all that fussy. Or I am, but find prefer some of the cheaper dark chocolates over most of the pricer ones. So I really like ‘Hershey’s Special Dark’, but for snacking, I find the best combination of price, flavor and convenience to be a 5lb bag of Ghirardelli chocolate chips from Sam’s…

webb November 7, 2005 at 5:38 pm

There really is cause for concern, at least for me. I definately find merit in a study that would claim snacking is the course of American’s increased consumption because i am the token victim.

Snacking clearly has a diminishing marginal rate of return. You lay down on the couch to fall asleep watching tv. While the first ritz cracker with EZ Cheese tastes great…before to long you want to throw up. That’ll happen.

johndewey November 7, 2005 at 6:21 pm

I’m not so sure the three meals a day prescription is the best strategy for obese people. It certainly isn’t for diabetics like me. I’ve been consistently told this by physicians and nutritionists:

1. what I eat is critical: very little sugar; temperate zone fruits (apples, plums, pears) instead of tropical fruits (no oranges, bananas, melons); always smaller portions.
2. my body can more easily absorb 200 carbohydrate grams if spread over six meals than if concentrated into 3.

Many obese folks will develop diabetes. I can guarantee you that changing diet and eating schedules before that point is much more tolerable than waiting until the pancreas starts to fail. If you lose the weight at 35 or 40, you might still be able to enjoy Mexican food at 55.

Even after being diagnosed, I’ve found I can still enjoy tasty foods: beef stew; cheeseburgers; lemon pie; cheesecake; hearty Italian soups. But my wife and I now are forced to cook them ourselves. The biggest lifestyle change is that fast foods and many restaurants are now off limits.

Good news: I’ve dropped my weight from 210 to 180 so far. As a result, I can expect to live 20 to 25 more years instead of 10 or 12.

Timothy November 8, 2005 at 12:31 am

I have one beverage suggestion that is super tasty, fizzy (which is often a requirement for me), and not terrible for you. Equal parts club soda and plain cranberry juice. Not cranberry cocktail with the added sugar, but regular old, unadulturated cranberry juice. Quite tasty, not super suggary, and the cranberry juice is good for the kidneys.

Noumenon November 8, 2005 at 5:27 am

This is Marginal Revolution — don’t blame individual choices for weight gain! Look at the incentives behind the individual choices. I mean, corn subsidies may not be the determining factor, but they have an effect on the choice between chips and popcorn. And maybe the spacing of meals is some kind of demand thing where food becomes a (made up terms) continuous good instead of a utility good.

triticale November 8, 2005 at 12:59 pm

The anti-smoking campaigners will probably claim that their major contribution to the alleged obesity problem is that they are making restaurants more attractive to non-smokers.

asiequana November 8, 2005 at 1:09 pm

Certainly the availability of low-quality foodstuffs has added to our girth. But I would presume that lifestyle has had a bigger impact. City layouts promote driving over walking. Service jobs are less physically intensive than manufacturing jobs. Leisure activities tend to be more passive than before – i.e. TV & computers. I say this because other western countries have similar levels of calorie intake but we are by far the fattest OECD country. Also OECD health data shows that although daily caloric intake grew by only marginally in Australia over a 20-year period the rate of obesity grew by 23% vs 16% in the US where calorie intake has increase much more significantly. France’s per capita calorie consumption is one of the higher of the OECD but yet has one of the lower levels of obesity.

While everyone is offering dieting advice here’s mine. Set a target daily calorie intake level and a minimum level of exercise of 3 30-minute periods of vigorous exercise per week. Anything you consume above your Calorie limit has to be paid for via more exercise. So if you eat a 300 Calorie candy bar then you have to get on a treadmill for 20-30 minutes.

Kathleen Fasanella November 8, 2005 at 1:41 pm

As someone who’s lost 150 lbs and kept it off for 20 years, first, I don’t recommend going hungry; it’s hard enough to motivate yourself without repressive restrictions. I’d recommend cutting out all fried foods (you’ll get plenty of fats anyway), grabbing fruit when your sweet tooth hits (you can still have sweets but with fruit in your tummy, you’ll want less) and drinking more liquids; my beverage of choice is club soda. Often, people are thirsty -not hungry- but they don’t realize it. If you’re trying to lose weight, you don’t need to go nuts with exercise, just walk as much as you possibly can (although if you’re desperate like I was you can sell your car and buy a bicycle). Maintaining weight loss is easy -and inexpensive- by adopting a vegetarian diet. With all of these changes garnered over 20 years, my weight problem these days is making sure I don’t get too thin which can present its own social challenges -everyone in my family remains morbidly obese.

Paul N November 8, 2005 at 8:59 pm

I think food is more delicious than it used to be – that’s why we’re eating more of it.

Prediction based on this theory: if you restrict the variety of what you eat (eliminating carbs, or eliminating fats, or eliminating “un-caveman” foods, etc.) you will eat less, and lose weight.

Another prediction based on this theory: people will eat most at a buffet, where they can have a little of everything.

Another prediction based on this theory: if you force yourself to eat something disgusting on purpose (fructose water, slimfast, fish oil, etc.) you will eat less.

bhauth November 13, 2005 at 12:58 am

I likes me some dark chocolate. 70% Dolfin with cocoa pieces is the best, I say.

Properly dark chocolate isn’t really that fattening either, has largely “good” fats, and is an antioxidant.

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