Buenos Aires bleg

by on December 18, 2005 at 1:52 pm in Travels | Permalink

Not for barbecue, but rather Christmas vacation.  Advice and suggestions about all facets of the place are welcome, leave them in the comments.  Yes I have the relevant guidebooks, but during my previous visit they were not much use for this splendid city, which lacks major sights.

By the way, many readers ask me what is "bleg" is.  This neologism combines the ideas of "blog" and "beg," the latter referring to a plea for assistance.

Jim December 18, 2005 at 2:32 pm

While it is lacking for sites that are destinations, it is a fantastic place to simply wander. Just put on comfortable shows and head out – you can spend hours just enjoying the people, architecture, and sense of place.

The San Tome (?) area is a great area — tango dancing in the plaza, flea markets with character, etc.

The cemetary is remarkably interesting, strangely worth a visit. The ex really wanted to see Evita Peron’s tomb – but the whole thing was very neat. It’s a fascinating place to capture interesting images if you have a good camera (and eye…).

There are tons of beautiful women to gaze upon (so many so that my notoriously uptight and repressed ex-wife even seemed to enjoy them too.)

The number one thing to do is dining: chorzo (sausage) as an appetizer, bife de chorizo (steak, and the BEST in the world) with fries and a nice glass of Malbec from the Mendoza. My recollection is that a 20 year old bottle of red could be had for about $15 and the steak was cheap enough that dinner for 2 (with said bottle) was always less tha $50. I ate steak for every lunch and dinner for a weak….sure my doc may not have liked it, but my toungue and nose loved it.

The casino was lame.

J

Mike Kimel December 18, 2005 at 3:30 pm

You can take a fastboat from the port of Buenos Aires to assorted parts of Uruguay (http://www.buquebus.com/BuquebusLocal/servlet/com.buquebus.web.ArmaOfertasPrincipal). You’ll find the meat tastes even better in Uruguay than in Argentina – the cows are the same and fed on the same pampas grass, but Uruguay is a small country so in many cases the beef hasn’t even hit the refrigerator once before hitting your plate.

In Buenos Aires – there’s a chain of ice cream stores called “Fredo’s.” Two of their flavors, dulce de leche and lemon, are very very good.

mitch December 18, 2005 at 6:23 pm

Bar Uriarte in Palermo — art, fine martinis, brutally good meat. El Torre Monumental — the old British clocktower that was renamed after el quilombo de Las Malvinas — in Retiro affords a longview of la ciudad. Phil Green makes distinctive old-man-looking clothes for the young and middle-aged man (maybe, the mob). There’s a fair in Recoleta; Buy some alparagatas, because it’s probably heating up down there right now, and you’ll see them on more and more feet. Ultimate Frisbee on Sundays near Belgrano y la cancha River Plate (en Parque Centenario). Tigre is close and comfortable — take the bus, which is a boat, away from the mainland, and explore the tributaries of the river on foot. More at http://argentino.saur.us (the biggest dinosaur EVER)

Chris R December 18, 2005 at 9:29 pm

If you can get up to Iguacu on the Brazil-Paraguay-Arg. border for a day or so (cheap flight?), do it. Other than that, do what everybody else says. Find some old Malbec and some steaks or asado, and chow down (best meal of my life, $8 in Cordoba).

Kathleen Fasanella December 19, 2005 at 8:40 am

With regards to food: Alfajores…Argentines have a perverse fascination with “moon-pies”. They have boutique type stores that sell moon-pies of every flavor you can imagine, selling them individually to be packaged in fancy boxes and lace doilies. It’s a riot.

Pablo December 19, 2005 at 11:12 pm

If you are fan of antiques – then San Telmo. Palermo Viejo has seen some top quality Argentinean-fusion restaurants pop up in the last few years.

The painter Xul Solar has been getting lots of press lately. I think there may be a special exhibition of his at the Malba now. Even if not, the Malba is worth it. Also try to catch a show at Teatro Colon. Lots of better stuff in the smaller theatres – but more of a risk you get a stinker.

Its going to be incredibly hot and humid. Take a ferry over to Punta del Este for two days and a night. Amazing beaches, night life etc…

Ah, and you should read some Borges on the way down.

Assume you have seen “Nueve Reinas”?
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0247586/

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