Bordeaux bleg

Herr Cowen,

Would you be kind enough to elaborate on “quantitative gastronomy?† (calorie counting?)

What will they think of a non-wine drinker – an ‘American’ (term used in the derogatory manner – only because they and most of the rest of the world are jealous/envious of the fantastic social experiment taking place here; unprecedented in its depth and breadth).

Château Margaux

Side trip: Moscow in May

Bon Voyage

I lived in Bordeaux for 7 months, and would love to go back. Some things to do:

1) Rue St. Catherine. This is supposed to be one of the longest pietons in France. Since it is a pedestrian street, it is full of shops and cafes. It goes from le Grand Theatre (the expensive, chic side) to Place de la Victoire (the dirty, cheap side), and runs about 1 kilometer. Look out for other pietons that run into it and some old roman arches. I would suggest walking the whole distance and getting lost along the way on some side streets.

2) La ville d’Arcachon and la Dune du Pyla. Arcachon is a little town on the Atlantic coast, about 70 kilometers from Bordeaux (1 hours drive). It is a typical sleepy French town that hits you with its charm and that you don’t want to leave. Just walk around and explore. Find a restaurant along the beach and enjoy the view. La dune du Pyla is the largest sand dune in Europe and is only 10 minutes from Arcachon. A great place to watch the sunset.

Since I don’t drink wine either, I don’t have any suggestions about that. Sorry. Enjoy the trip.

Plan your next trip to Burgundy–the wine is more subtle and much more food-friendly, and the region is beautiful and fun. Stay away from Beaune and stick to small villages such as Mersault and Nolay.

As a dedicated chowhound, I think you are missing out by not being much of a wine drinker. I know a lot of spicy ethnic foods lend themselves to beer, but there are so many great wines out there that really enhance a meal of any sort.

1996 Château Corbin Michotte $17: A less prestigious wine from a good vintage is a great way to get an affordable taste of somewhat mature Bordeaux. This wine is 3rd from the top in the St. Emilion classification system. Open it; pour a glass and drink up. Then wait an hour and try again. The wine will develop over time. Chocolate, dark fruit and hints of earth and tobacco. Smooth, velvety, and dense.

2003 Chateau D’ Armailhac $38.00: The Wine Spectator: “This huge black/purple colored 2003 reveals tremendous opulence, low acidity, and loads of licorice-infused black fruit. A soft, dense, chewy wine, it offers tremendous fruit, power and intensity. It should be drinkable within 3-5 years of bottling and last for 15 plus years. (92-94)”. Also, Robert Parker rates 89-91 points.

Also, consider the 2nd wines of big names such as the 2003 Château La Croix de Beaucaillou $30: Wine Spectator: 86 points: “A balanced wine with berry, tobacco and cherry aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a fresh finish.† Decanter says: three stars ” Deep ruby, good smoky nose, smooth and elegant with lots of Cabernet structure and fruit, good length and lovely balance. Best 2007-2012†

Some widely available and reasonably priced Bordeaux wines include the 2000 Chateau Sainte Colombe $16, 2003 Chateau Mouton $19, 2000 Chateau Larose-Trintaudon $19, and 2002 Chateau Bel-Air-Ouy $24.

A nice budget white is 2004 Chateau Magneau Graves $11.00.

Of course, you could just go to a nice shop in the DC area and ask fo advice.. I moved away from a DC a few years ago, but I always really liked ACE Beverage on New Mexico Avenue. I’m afraid I’ve got nothing in Northern VA, but I’m sure there’s some decent shops out there.