Alex and I will be there for the Southern Economics Association meetings, along with many other economists. I don't know the city well, as I've been there only once. There might be a bit of free time. What should we do? Where should we eat?
San Antonio bleg
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I think it’s required for you to visit the Pace Picante sauce factory. Why else would one go to San Antonio?
The Lakewalk is pretty overly touristy and all the restaraunts serve the same extremely overpriced, low quality tex-mex, but if you haven’t been to a Dick’s Last Resort restaurant yet, it’s quite an experience and the BBQ is terrific.
Are you too cool for Mi Tierra?
As a former San Antonio resident, I miss Taco Taco Cafe’s breakfasts and San Antonio Spurs games. Catch both if you can.
I had one of the absolute worst meals of my life on the Riverwalk and have never had good food. Bug the staff for good recommendations. I can’t remember the name of the place anymore, but that strategy worked well for us.
I was just in San Antonio for a meeting, and did a little research before going (and talked to some cops while there). I highly recommend both Rosario’s and Acenar, and I was told that Mi Tierra and Boudro’s are also very good, but I didn’t get a chance to eat at either.
Rosario’s is five or six blocks from the riverwalk area (~$5 cab ride, or a 15 minute walk), and it’s well worth it. It’s very good Mexican food, and it’s not particularly expensive. The four of us that went to Rosario’s were all very pleased. Here’s their URL: http://www.rosariossa.com/
Acenar is on the riverwalk, and it’s tex-mex (and co-owned by the owner of Rosario’s, according to the concierge in the hotel I was staying in). It’s also very good and not too expensive, with some nice, off beat takes on Mexican food (e.g., duck chalupas). Here’s their URL: http://www.acenar.com/main/index.php
While it won’t win the prize for ambience – I was born and raised in San Antonio, and my one, must visit restaurant when I am home is Luby’s Cafeteria.
Completely agree with Mi Tierra. I go to San Antonio at least once a year (and lived there for 6) and I have never missed an opportunity to eat there (breakfast, lunch, and dinner are all worth it). If you go for dinner, visit the market right outside.
The riverwalk, as some have said, is too touristy. Spurs games are always fun and if the rodeo is in town that can be an experience. Also I recommend checking out all of the Missions, not just the Alamo.
Rudy’s BBQ for a very authentic TX BBQ experience (don’t miss the creamed corn) and Rosario’s Mexican Cafe for superb tamales, house made salsa and lots of other good Mexican dishes. I’ll also second Mi Terra.
I’ll second the Taco Taco breakfast taco recommendations. Their tortillas are amazing (and for whatever reason, they won’t let you buy them separately). Rudy’s BBQ is a perfect example of the awesomeness of Texas BBQ.
Cool, I wish I were back there instead of Kuwait.
I have to second (third?) Rosarios. Very good food. Fish tacos are awesome. And you can walk it from the Riverwalk too, plus it’s a bit away from the touristy areas. I have to agree about the restaurants along the Riverwalk too. Overpriced and not that great. You’re paying for the setting.
If you like Indian food, there is a great restaurant a bit away from the downtown area, up on Callaghan street (take I-10) called Madras Pavilion. Try the lunch buffet. Best Indian cuisine I’ve had.
Of course, Alamo and all that. Everyone’s got that pretty much covered though.
You must have the home-brewed rootbeer at Schilo’s, an old German deli/restaurant on street level above Casa Rio (whose Mexican food is so-so). We love Schilo’s split-pea soup, too, and their exceptional breakfasts (about 2 blocks from Alamo, south of the orange swirly statue).
On the Riverwalk, get past the touristy bit and you can stroll through peaceful greenery to the King William District in one direction or all the way to the SA Museum of Art the other way, passing the SW Crafts Center in former Ursuline Convent & School buildings. Your hotel can give you a map that’s easy to fold up and take along.
In the King William Historic District, try the Mad Hatter’s Tea Room – great gourmet sandwiches, a huge selection of teas, lovely house-made baked goods, eclectic seating in picturesque neighborhood.
SA is our favorite convention city because downtown is so walkable and there are so many restaurants! Best souvenirs = pecan pralines, “Texas-size” jelly beans, Tito’s vodka (handcrafted in Austin)& great Texas wines.
I just read the comments and I will respond to them in addition to my recommendations above.
I agree, don’t eat on the Riverwalk. I think you are smart enough to realize the average quality of food that is to be expected in these places given a captive tourist market with few repeat customers.
The Liberty Bar is a good recommendation too. The place is slanted at about 7% grade and looks like it is about to fall down. I’d say this is lunch place rather than a dinner place. I’m hoping you will be inclined to try Azuca for dinner BECAUSE everyone else said Mi Tierra.
Menger Bar – good choice – close to Alamo and conference area.
McNay Art Museum is also a good pick, but it is not downtown so plan at least 20 minutes to get there by cab.
I liked the Luby’s Cafeteria recommendation too!
Was just on a bbq tour in TX (yummy lockhart!) if you have never seen all the missions do that. oh and the alameda museum http://www.thealameda.org/ was really cool.
The eternal San Antonio… making the short jaunt to see the “other” missions (besides the Alamo) is a treat. The McNay Museum is very pleasant. The first place my wife and I go when we’re in San Antonio is La Fogata (2427 Vance Jackson 78213 http://www.lafogata.com) — everything we’ve had there is first-rate. One of our favorite restaurants in Texas.
For us, San Antonio means La Fogata, the Missions , and the friendly, friendly people.
The Menger Hotel next to the Alamo is an historic hotel worth a look. TR was there recruiting his Rough Riders.
http://www.sanantoniomag.com/current_issue.html
A good friend, and someone whose taste I trust works for this mag. They have a best of in the current issue.
For all the sneering about the Riverwalk, which is mostly focused on its overpriced restaurants,
it is still a great place to walk on, although the boat ride is a way to avoid some of the worst
crowds.
Regarding eating, there have been a few snide references to Tex-Mex, even as lots of people have
suggested various places not on the Riverwalk where indeed that is what one will get. It should
be kept in mind that Tex-Mex is a genuine cuisine, and if there is a capital for it, San Antonio
is that capital. One will get as good-as-it-gets Tex Mex there, and some of the places mentioned
are exactly those places.
San Antonio is pleasant but a little bland. You’ll do the river walk and alamo of course. Do be prepared to be disappointed by the alamo.
If you have some extra time you should drive to/toward hill country. enjoy the land, pick some peaches, and etc.
As far as activities I would recommend 2 must see sites:
1) the non-alamo missions. They are some of the oldest buildings in the country and its interesting to see how they were built (look for a good taquaria when you are down there).
2) driving through or walking around the King William district. The neighborhood is probably the richest display of the german immigrant influenced texas hill-country house style. Look for tin roofs, wide porches, and limestone construction.
Other activities you might want to do:
–riverwalk boat ride: great way to see the riverwalk and you learn about the history of the downtown. Its definatly worth doing if you have never done it before (especially if the christmas lights are up).
–San Antonio Art Museum: it has a small collection, but a nice selection of pre-columbian art and catholic votive art
–The interior of the Majestic Theater. Its built in an amazing baroque/spanish-mission pastiche. Pics on the internet give you a flavor, but the whole building, lobby and all, is adorned with intricate woodwork and the occasional wacky cave-like flourish.
–Penner’s clothing store is an interesting glimps into a bygone era of retail and with its guayabera selection another example of the city’s melting-pot culture. Not really worth going out of your way for, but an interesting and unique site if you are in the area.
Just returned from San Antonio yesterday, after completing the Rock and Roll Half Marathon.
Mi Tierra was a fun early Monday morning visit. We sampled from the many varieties of Mexican pastries on the bakery side. My wife enjoyed the white lights of their Mexican Christmas decor, though I found it too bright for the morning after my run. It was too early for the mariachis, so we couldn’t shell out the suggested $6.00 for a tableside song.
As a Texas history buff, I couldn’t pass up the Institute for Texan Cultures adjacent to the Alamodome. We learned about Lebanese peddlers who carried wares on their backs from ranch to ranch. I had known about the successful Meusebach-Comanche Treaty made between private citizens and the Comanche tribe – the only Comanche treaty recognized by the U.S. government. Irishman Hugo Oconor’s exploits as a Spanish general were not new to me. But I had known nothing about the Texas Wendish population nor had ever seen their decorated Easter eggs. The Wends settled here after escaping Prussian oppression 150 years ago. I could have spent a day at the Institute, but had to leave after two hours. The Institute for Texan Cultures is probably not on everyone’s top ten list, but just right for those who find history and culture fascinating.
Some thoughts on SA.
1. A drink at the Menger takes so little time, it’s a shame not to do it.
2. Mission San Jose is a short side trip to see the best example in the area of a working mission.
3. Cabrito. The best used to be at Karam’s, but I would check with the locals first.
4. I always hit Mi Tierra on my way out for pan dulces and especially the leche quemada.
If you find yourself walking near Commerce and St Mary’s, at the southwest corner of the Riverwalk rectangle, step in and check out the lobby of the Drury Plaza Hotel. Blogger Pa Rock describes the 1920′s era lobby:
“The Drury Plaza is in the old Alamo Bank building. There are some interesting vault displays from its days as a bank that can be viewed in the basement. An enormous stained glass of the Alamo (the mission) looms over the front door, and it is bordered by two art deco brass plaques (each approximately 5 feet wide by 20 feet high). One of the brass plates has a laborer holding a globe with the caption, “Trust Binds the Nation,” and the other has a laborer holding a hammer with the caption “Thrift Drives the Nation.” Taken in total, those plaques represent a time in America’s economic history that has long past.”
dittos: Shilo’s (try the root beer); Rolando’s Super Taco; Menger Bar;
warnings: Luby’s (think cafeteria with an uninspired menu);
ADD:
Delores Del Rio (http://www.doloresdelrioristorante.com/)
checkout the belly dancing. Also, just above DDR is the…
Esquire Tavern–probably the most authentic/tourist-free bar downtown. It’s one of my favorites since you’ll pay a reasonable amount of money for a drink and you can catch up on all of the great conjunto norteno music you’ve been missing.
Blue Star Brewery, brewpub just to the north of downtown.
Casbeers (just down the road from Rolando’s) great place for enchiladas and beer.
In an area with so many Mexican restaurants, it can be difficult to separate the good from the average. La Fogata is definitely one of the best and I highly recommend it. I have been visiting my half-sister for years and we always have to go. She is a native of San Antonio and it has been her favorite restaurant since she was in high school.
The McNay Art Museum is also worth a trip. It has a nice collection and the museum itself is an interesting structure.
Born and raised in SATX and would definitely recommend Mi Tierra, Market Square, The Menger Hotel, and the McNay Art Museum – all in or relatively close to downtown. As far as BBQ goes, the only thing that comes to mind is Bill Millers, but its kind of a fast food joint but not bad at all. But fret not, they have all the Texas BBQ staples there.
Go see USAA. Report whether they have any lessons for the financial industry.
I second the Rudy’s recommendation. Best BBQ I’ve ever had. I’m a vegetarian now, but boy do I miss the beef brisket at Rudy’s . . . mmmmmm.
From someone who was born in San Antonio:
Food: For amazing tex-mex, go to Alamo Cafe (there are a few locations). For delicious more traditional Mexican food, try La Fogata. Also, the Magic Time Machine, is definitely worth a visit.
To do: Go to El Mercado. It’s really fun.
Visit the Apple store in the mall. Seriously.
Take a look at the facade and the inside of the store. I built the cabinets and work stations in the back of the store while another crew was doing all the metal work. Apple paid them to install thousands of pounds of stainless steel to cover every wall of retail space and the outside facade. It must have cost a fortune.
For breakfast, get breakfast tacos (personally I like barbacoa). There are probably hundreds around San Antonio (more so in South or Central San Antonio).
Interestingly enough the Korean food is pretty good (I’m half Korean). It’s probably because there is a bit of a Korean diaspora in town due to the fact of the number of military bases in the area. There are a cluster of good restaurants near Fort Sam Houston (Austin Hwy, Harry Wurzbach).
For a few beers and viewing of dead animals on walls, check out the Buckhorn Saloon and Museum, not for all, but definitely unique.
I’ve lived here for 10 years, moved from SoCal. I enjoy the Riverwalk, very pleasant to stroll, especially this time of year, but probably the only places to eat there are Boudros and Pesca. The Iron Cactus is not bad either (Mexican, new chain restaurant). I’d stay in the Watermark downtown (Pesca is their restaurant). Will second the Mad Hatter in KW. La Frite used to be really good, but was disappointed the past few times I ate there. I like Bistro Vatel and Cappy’s(both a couple miles north of downtown). Also Il Sognio in the Pearl Brewery complex. Taco Cabana, local fast food chain, has great breakfast tacos. Also good for breakfast or lunch is the Guenther House in KW, especially if you like waffles and pancakes (it’s in the old house of the founder of Pioneer Flour Mills). Mi Tierra is ok, but the ambience is nice. My favorite dive Mexican restaurant in Taqueria Huentitan off Hildebrand on the west side of town.
Go to Mi Tierra, it’s good. Plus it’s always open.
Fine Dining – Biga on the Banks is downtown and excellent. Coco Bistro is on the north end of town, not near downtown at all, but also excellent.
Tex-Mex – Mi Tierra, La Fogata, or if you’re going to King William anyway Tito’s
Tex-Mex (Breakfast) – Lula’s next to the Milam diner downtown.
Thai – Thai Taste or Thai Pikul (surprisingly good, given the location).
Weird/Local – The Cove – http://thecove.us/cove/index.php It’s San Antonio’s best laundromat/diner/bar/ice-cream parlor/car wash/arcade.
Texas food – Josephine Street bar or Blue Star brewery. Josephine Street is on the street of the same name, in a building that should be condemned. It’s great. Blue Star is also over in King William.
Burgers – Chris Madrid’s
Misc – Mad Hatter’s teahouse in King William.
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