As this bleg is posting I am on a flight to Beijing. After that, Manila. I’ll have plenty to say about China, but in the meantime your Manila suggestions would be much appreciated, thanks!
Manila bleg
Previous post: Assorted links
Next post: My favorite things China
I was in Manila in January and if you have a half of day a trip to Taal volcano is well worth it. Try a local “delicacy” balut if you haven’t before. Finally, a trip to a cockfight (national past time) is interesting as well.. your feelings for the chickens slowly die away as you watch them get slaughtered.
Expect horrible traffic. If you have a full day (or at least the first 3/4), a tour of Corregidor island is very worthwhile (lots of history). Catch the boat early in the morning from somewhere along the waterfront (look it up). Taal (active volcano) is also great, a bit less touristy. If you have less time, the old walled city of Manila is pretty interesting.
I stayed at the Intercontinental in the Presidential Suite for $150. That’s the best thing I can say for Manila.
And that there were roosters trotting around baggage claim, flown in for cockfighting. That was kind of interesting to see.
Other than that there were a whole lot of malls. I’m not a huge fan of the food there, way too bland for my taste. All in all I was happy to move on to my next stop, Macau.
I hear the envelopes are nice.
check out the nightlife on burgos street in Makati
Try visiting the American Cemetery
http://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries/ml.php
or for something different, you could visit Smokey Mountain
http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-503543_162-20023776-503543.html
enjoy the traffic!
Best Manila book:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0451229991
The author of that book, Rafe Bartholomew, just wrote a fairly interesting article about retired NBA players in exhibition games in the Philippines.
http://www.grantland.com/story/_/id/8195667/the-rodman-family-scottie-pippen-nba-retirees-explore-manila-trip-philippines
is the Hobbit House still up and running? Only little person bar I have ever been in.
Try eating Sisig which is fried pork scalp with various spices and such, really good with a cold beer. Also, sinigang which is a sour soup made with tamarind or guavas. And for fruits definitely try the Mangosteen, Langans, and anything else you can get your hands on.
Manila is difficult to appreciate – but I will tell you how to enjoy it.
You will most likely stay in Makati – go to the Ayala Center and eat at a place called Centro. Filipino food for the upwardly mobile. Spit on any backpacker who tells you to eat at a street pot shop. Also visit the Ayala Museum within the same complex – you will observe a string of 50 or so dioramas that depict Filipino history as a series of assassinations and massacres.
Then, travel to the Marikina Shoe Expo in Cubao. Shop in the afternoon and stay for the evening to observe the Filipino take on Hipsters.
For Filipino food, try Centro (mentioned above), Abe in Fort Bonifacio area or Felly J (a Filipino favorite in Greenbelt). One thing to think about while you are here is why Filipino food isn’t (IMHO) as tasty as it’s neighbors such as Taiwan, Hong Kong, Vietnam and Thailand? Or do Filipinos have a different palate?
The most interesting food is Korean (lots of tourists and expats) and Iranian (lots of nursing and dental students come here to study).
I currently live in Makati (a district within Manila). Happy to meet for a meal.
Would love to join you and Jasper when you decide to go for that meal.
I’m sitting here with a Filipino person, who says you should try the balut – salty, fertilized egg. Also dinuguan (meat with blood) and champorado (good for breakfast). Lechon is barbecued pig. If you’re thirsty have some halo halo. Enjoy!
watch out for lady-boys!
I thought those were only in Thailand?!
@TC: As for things to say about the Philippines, I’d be interested to hear your take on the recent flare up (and the ongoing matter, as well) regarding the tiny, uninhabited islands in the South China Sea that the PRC, Vietnam, the Philippines, and Malaysia all variously claim.
Philippines will take them, they have belonged to us for 1000 years if you look at the archeological artifacts. China is a bully and needs to get its nose bloodied-those little emperor spoiled single child kids will run when the first wave gets mowed down by Filipino firepower.
China has ICBMs and nuclear weapons. The Philippines does not.
Realistically, this means any resolution over the Spratly Islands or the Scarborough Shoal will come down to a) how involved the U.S. or Australia want to get involved in the dispute or b) whether a combination of the Philippines and other Southeast Asian countries can exercise enough economic leverage over China to convince them bullying is not in their long-term economic self-interest.
i don’t think nukes are relevant to this dispute-just as us did not use them in vietnam, china will not use them here. ground-game is key and filipino marines are better-trained than any PRC forces.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philippine_Marine_Corps
Least enjoyable country in South East Asia, and I’ve been to them all – and have lived in some.
The Philippines has some beautiful islands and beaches, but horrible cities. Better restaurants and bars in Phnom Penh, Vientiane, HCMC, Hanoi. Even BKK.
Excuse me. I’ve been to all to cities and countries (and lived in some as well) you mentioned and more. You’d be an idiot to say Phnom Penh, Vientiane, HCMC and Hanoi has better nightlife than Manila. Even the Sofitel Metropole in Hanoi can’t make me a good Long Island.
I’ve been to all to cities and countries (and lived in some as well) you mentioned and more.
I agree that you would probably have to be an idiot to say Phnom Penh, Vientiane, HCMC and Hanoi have better “nightlife” than Manila.
But the conclusion that Mike made is probably right:
The Philippines has some beautiful islands and beaches, but horrible cities. Better restaurants and bars in Phnom Penh, Vientiane, HCMC, Hanoi. Even BKK.
Can’t help much without knowing how long you will be here in the Philippines. Even most Filipinos don’t like Balut (cooked egg with duck embryo inside), it is more about being “brave” and I would also put Sisig (fried up pig head) at the bottom of the cuisine. Personally, my favorite is Sinigang Baboy (Pork Sinigang), but there are many other worthwhile dishes. Bicol Express is another to try. Yes, prefer to eat at nicer place inside, street places often have cold food, this is not like Thailand where street food is great.
Day trip to Taal Volcano (Volcano inside of a lake and there is another lake inside the volcano) and Tagaytay is great, although this is the rainy season (and the most intense part of it), and even daily forecasts are not reliable. I have heard Corregidor is worthwhile, not been there.
There is no urban beauty in the Philippines.
In the Manila area, if you try to “see” anything you will be uncomfortable and grumpy because of the smells, heat, humidity, noise, music, and the difficulty of getting a nice and satisfying meal. The best thing about Manila is Starbucks Coffee and imported ear plugs available at Ace Hardware. If you can find it, get some barbequed lechon (pork) with steamed rice on the side. Most food here is unappealing and you might need to double order because the standard meal size is small.
Taal Volcano and the surrounding area Tagaytay are not worth the trip. It takes too long to get anywhere in the Manila area and drivers often don’t know your destination. You can also skip the walled city, Intramuros.
Take a tour of Old Manila and/or the CCP Complex (really a tour about Imelda Marcos) with Carlos Celdran (http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/). Can’t recommend him enough, for some historical and social perspective on Manila. Am not really a fan of structured tours, but the tours were both interesting and enlightening (and I’ve lived here all my life).
For Filipino food, Abe in Serendra at the Fort (i.e. Fort Bonifacio) serves authentic cuisine. Try the Pig Knuckles and Arobung Camaru (Crickets).
If you make it to Tagaytay as some have suggested, Antonio’s is charming and the food (continental) is very good. Probably not worth the trip though if you are here for just a few days.
Tyler, if you want to make your trip truly worthwhile, check out a piece of information about that country that has circulated, under the radar, for some few decades now: That country apparently has the largest trove of historical assets ever put together by any one who has ever lived. The internet has buzzed for years about it but you don’t have to take its unsubstantiated (and often exaggerated) claims; and you also don’t want to deal with many crooks who have turned this into a cottage industry of fraudulent documents claiming ownership (or fractions) of assets worth billiions. Those are a collosal waste of time. But do start by asking for an appointment with whoever in its Central Bank has custody of the assets of a man (for nowunnamed) that were lent to the government to capitalize the establishment of the Central Bank. Check how many tons in the Congrssional Records
it was. And this was just the tip of the iceberg; the country has more gold than the rest of the world put together, the largest being held in China. If you can find the right people to talk to (most actually live in the US) you will learn about how this country could actually make Fort Knox look like a boring place. An economist like you and once thought this was bull, but no longer. Just this one story can make your trip, or bail out the whole of Europe. You just have to know who to talk to since this is pretty much not in the books (but many who have attempted ended up either routed, or intimidated by the sheer impossibility.
Sorry I can’t post under my full email, but it should be trivial compared to the value of this lead. I won’t be able to respond to anything sent to it. Thanks,
Having lived in the Philippines before, I agree with the other commenters that Manila is mostly an unpleasant city, with terrible traffic in many places. I’ve never met a Filipino who says he or she likes Manila. However, some parts are good.
For history, I second taking one of Carlos Celdran’s walking tours of Intramuros. Celdran became a minor celebrity about two years ago when he was arrested after protesting the government’s “reproductive health” law by walking into Manila Cathedral dressed as Jose Rizal. He’s an excellent tour guide. You could also visit the Quiapo Church (the church of the Black Nazarene), which is nothing to look at architecturally, but is a center of religious devotion and even pilgrimage.
Greenhills mall in San Juan has a good market for cheap electronics.
Filipino food is not bland, but it isn’t spicy like in other Southeast Asian countries. Their taste runs more towards sour, which is why one of the national dishes is sinigang, a sour tamarind soup. The best for me is sinigang na hipon (shrimp sinigang). You should also definitely have lechon baboy or whole roast pork, especially Cebu style. Some of the best places for CEbu lechon are in the Quezon district. Personally, I’ve never had the courage for balut.
But mostly, get out of Manila if you have time! The Philippines has some beautiful areas in the countryside and around the different islands. On Luzon there’s the rice terraces near Baguio, the hundred islands park near Pangasinan, Mt. Pinatubo in Pampangas, beaches and old Spanish churches in Batangas, and Mt. Mayon volcano in Albay province.
But it is the height of the rainy season, so the farther south you go, the better the weather might be. Mindoro has good beaches and famous scuba-diving spots, and is close to Manila. The neighboring islands of Cebu and Bohol, and Cagayan d’Oro on Mindinao, are all worthwhile. The best is El Nido on northern Palawan, which is one of the most perfect spots in the world.
Sorry, I meant that Celdran was protesting in favor of the reproductive health bill. The church opposes it.
Tyler,
I would gladly show you around Manila if you like.
I recommend the ff places for good eats:
People’s Palace in Greenbelt (Thai food)
Sala (also in Greenbelt)
Little Tokyo for some fresh sushi (I reco – Kikafuji and Seryna restaurants)
Do a Celdran tour and see Manila the way it should be
http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/
Don’t forget, It’s more fun in the Philippines!
Also, get a massage. $6.00 for an hour, tip included.
Visit the University of the Philippines in Quezon City! It has the largest expanse of greenery in the Metro Manila. Also, professors at the School of Economics will be thrilled by a visit. We have a burgeoning interest in institutional economics, and have close links with the George Mason University (e.g., John Nye visits regularly).
About the only area in manila that has historical heritege is the old walled area of Intramuros. Pebbled and brick streets and nineteenth century style wooden structures (although the area is slowly being eaten up by urban growth). For food, if you’re in the area, nothing beats Illustrados, for up-market Filipino food.
If you’re looking for hipster Manila, go to Malate, lots of small, quaint bars and restos (but watch your wallet if you’re going to walk out at night). This is where the hobbit house another commenter mentioned about is (if it’s still there).
If you’re looking for the new ‘it’ area among upmarket locals, go to ‘The Fort’ where restos are less likely to below your Western standards.
I love the Philippines but have issues with Manila’s traffic, air quality, and a few other things. As soon as you fly in Manila, take a flight to Palawan, Bohol, Boracay, or any of the beaches. The country has the best beaches in the world. If you’ll be stuck in Manila, stay in Greenbelt; have dinner at Abe and Centro for local cuisine and Chateau 1771 for a good mix. There are also several good Korean and Hong Kong-style restaurants.
But whatever you do, DO NOT miss the chance to have mangoes. Simply the best.
I highly recommend the Intramuros tour of Carlos Celdran – http://celdrantours.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/if-these-walls-could-talk-tour-of.html
My favorite Filipino restaurants: (1) Abe in Fort Bonifacio – http://ljcrestaurants.com.ph/abe/ (2) Sentro 1771, not spelled Centro like some people list above – https://www.facebook.com/sentro1771 (3) 1521 – https://www.facebook.com/1521resto (4) Bistro Filipino – http://www.cheflaudico.com.ph/bistro/
For a list of favorite Filipino dishes, here’s a good place to start: http://www.marketmanila.com/archives/marketmanilas-top-50ish-pinoy-dishes
Museum recommendations: (1) Ayala Museum – http://www.ayalamuseum.org/ (2) National Museum – be sure to see The Spoliarium by Juan Luna https://www.facebook.com/nationalmuseumofthephilippines (3) Metropolitan Museum – http://www.metmuseum.ph/
Hi Tyler,
I think the Burgos / Poblacion district in the Makati district would be your best bet. It’s on one end of Makati Avenue and probably will be quite accessible to you if you’re staying in Makati. It’s most famously known as a red light district, but it is actually also an area that has a concentration of modest yet good Korean restaurants that cater to the Koreans who live in the area. There was actually a proposal to change a part of the district into Koreatown but I believe this was rejected by the municipal government. (Aside: Koreans are a particularly fast growing immigrant group in the Philippines, and sizable numbers have settled in several major Philippine cities, not just Metro Manila.)
Don’t go to the area alone if you don’t want to be harrassed by touts or other type of folk of that sort.
* * *
A word about the traffic.
I believe that part of the reason lots of non-Manilenos get particularly harrassed by traffic is that they treat Metro Manila as one city rather than an agglomeration of several cities of which it makes little practical sense to criss-cross, especially during the worst of rush hour traffic.
For example, there is a suggestion to visit Cubao Expo after spending time in Makati. You can do that (Cubao Ex can be pretty awesome especially if u dont mind being around young people), just make sure you’re heading to Cubao at 10PM and not 730PM on a Friday night, otherwise you’re sure to be stuck in hours of mind numbing traffic.
if you’re only here for a few days:
- agreeing w/ many above, there’s nothing to see in manila. however, if you insist on seeing something, again, agreeing w/ the suggestions above, take the walking tour by Carlos Celdran. or go mall hopping. those are the only 2 things i would recommend you do.
- someone touched on this, but a lot of foreigners get confused about “Manila” vs “Metro Manila”. Manila is the city, Metro Manila is the cluster of cities (e.g. Makati, Quezon City, etc., including Manila). however, the cities are small, probably the size of a district in the US, so it’s easier to think of Metro Manila as the “city”, and the cities within as “districts”. and because of this, it is often referring to “Metro Manila” when people say “Manila”.
- going back to “seeing” Manila, the advantage of mall hopping is that many good restaurants are located in the big malls (like Greenbelt). so if you’re not going to “see” Manila, then i would recommend you just eat, eat and eat. (and drink.) but you can easily hit 2 birds w/ 1 stone by doing malling and eating (although you’ll be limited to the restaurants in the malls – and there are plenty other good restaurants outside of them). the suggestions above – Abe (Trinoma, QC), Fely J (Greenbelt, Makati) – are in the malls.
- the Ayala Museum is very near Greenbelt, so you can actually plan a 1-day itinerary consisting of malling, eating, shopping, and museum-ing if you’re in Makati. 2 fancy hotels are also nearby – Intercontinental and Makati Shangri-La – should you decide to unwind over a fancy steak (Prince Albert, Intercontinental) or buffet (Circles, Makati Shang) dinner at night.
- in the past 5 years or so, there’s been a huge influx of Chinese immigrants to Manila, so if you’re still craving Chinese food after your Beijing trip, you will find Chinese food in Manila to be quite good.
- traffic = horrible. allot 1 hour travel time to get from 1 city to another (e.g. Makati to QC, Manila to Makati, etc.). if it happens to be raining hard during your visit, God help you. (as a friend likes to say, “Traffic in Manila is instant – just add water.”)
(reposting: the formatting of the previous post got messed up)
if you’re only here for a few days:
- agreeing w/ many above, there’s nothing to see in manila. however, if you insist on seeing something, again, agreeing w/ the suggestions above, take the walking tour by Carlos Celdran. or go mall hopping. those are the only 2 things i would recommend you do.
- someone touched on this, but a lot of foreigners get confused about “Manila” vs “Metro Manila”. Manila is the city, Metro Manila is the cluster of cities (e.g. Makati, Quezon City, etc., including Manila). however, the cities are small, probably the size of a district in the US, so it’s easier to think of Metro Manila as the “city”, and the cities within as “districts”. and because of this, it is often referring to “Metro Manila” when people say “Manila”.
- going back to “seeing” Manila, the advantage of mall hopping is that many good restaurants are located in the big malls (like Greenbelt). so if you’re not going to “see” Manila, then i would recommend you just eat, eat and eat. (and drink.) but you can easily hit 2 birds w/ 1 stone by doing malling and eating (although you’ll be limited to the restaurants in the malls – and there are plenty other good restaurants outside of them). the suggestions above – Abe (Trinoma, QC), Fely J (Greenbelt, Makati) – are in the malls.
- the Ayala Museum is very near Greenbelt, so you can actually plan a 1-day itinerary consisting of malling, eating, shopping, and museum-ing if you’re in Makati. 2 fancy hotels are also nearby – Intercontinental and Makati Shangri-La – should you decide to unwind over a fancy steak (Prince Albert, Intercontinental) or buffet (Circles, Makati Shang) dinner at night.
- in the past 5 years or so, there’s been a huge influx of Chinese immigrants to Manila, so if you’re still craving Chinese food after your Beijing trip, you will find Chinese food in Manila to be quite good.
- traffic = horrible. allot 1 hour travel time to get from 1 city to another (e.g. Makati to QC, Manila to Makati, etc.). if it happens to be raining hard during your visit, God help you. (as a friend likes to say, “Traffic in Manila is instant – just add water.”)
Comments on this entry are closed.