By this point most of the Right Bank is mind-numbingly oppressive. I discovered the upper part of Marais, however, and fell in love with (parts of) Paris once again. Start on or near Rue Vertbois, explore the small streets, and end up in the food stores of Rue Bretagne, stopping many times along the way.
I’ve mostly seceded from the restaurant scene here, instead preferring to buy foodstuffs in the small shops. I just spent seven dollars for three (excellent) artichokes.
I know exactly how long an unrefrigerated crottin can stay good in a French hotel room.
Overall, what I am seeing more of is bagel shops and e-cigarette stores. The stand-alone fromagerie is increasingly difficult to find.
There is a separate art to ordering in Indian restaurants in Paris. Focus on the salmon and spinach, mostly unadorned.
For the first time ever I enjoyed gazing at the Mona Lisa.