Jess tells me that enthusiasm is more important than definitive knowledge, that many diners simply want a server to help them get excited about something.
The article had two good runner-up sentences:
"Some people are interested in having the experience of being disappointed," Tina says.
"People [in restaurants] are hungry, and then they’re drinking," he noted. "Two of the worst states that people can be in."
The article, which concerns a restaurant critic working for a week as a waiter, is interesting and humorous throughout.