Much of the food is good but not excellent. For the very best, I recommend two places in particular:
The Yellow Chilli: All the dishes seem to be quite good, but arguably the jollof rice and the seafood okra are standouts. Simply coming here for each meal probably beats doing a lot of search that will fail to find equal quality.
Sappor Cuisine: That’s if you are looking for street food and eating on the run. It’s set in Freedom Park (worth visiting in any case), just get the weird Nigerian dishes you’ve never heard of before, plus some fish. I’ve had four dishes there, and with not the slightest rumble in my stomach, in case you were wondering. You might not think that steamed yam powder can be transcendently good, but it is. At night there are worthwhile concerts in the park, so you can eat from here while you sit and listen. The best suya I had was on the beach.