Genoa is one of the best food venues in Italy, as is Liguria more generally. It is also one of the best places in Europe for vegetarian dining. Maximize the number of tarts and vegetable tarts you eat, skip hotel breakfast and look for small places with morning snacks, preferably baked goods, and treat them as the equal of cooked dishes. Forget about meat altogether.
1. Antica Sciamadda, 14-16 Via San Giorgio, arrive at the 11:30 opening and keep on buying the tarts and farinata as they are freshly baked and put out on the counter. There is a vaguely Arabic feel to the dishes, and there is an excellent video of the place here. There are many excellent “sciamadda” in Genoa and they lie somewhere between a food stall and a very small restaurant, so do not count on them being open for dinner.
2. Trattoria alle Due Torri, Salita del Prione 53, near the Columbus house. Order pasta and focaccia, this is some of the best spaghetti I’ve had, and the pansotti (ravioli in walnut sauce) is notable.
3. La Rina, superb seafood restaurant, don’t focus on the main courses.
There are relatively few tourists in town, although the most common group — by far — is Russians. From Bologna, here is a post about flunking out of Gelato University.