by Tyler Cowen
on July 30, 2015 at 2:02 am
in Food and Drink, Travel, Travels
What to do? What to see and where to eat? Our stay there will be brief, but thanks in advance for your assistance…
Was there earlier in July. Best restaurant by far: Paradigma (if you like fine dining). Also good, simple and local fish restaurant: Konoba Marjan. Best winebar: Paradox. For views, in and around the old palace and along the waterfront, plus up the hill for the view. Enjoy!
Best place to avoid ethnic Catholics (so great for cuckservatives and cuckatarians) is clearly:
So why would ethnic Catholics not go to Paradox? Is it run by Serbs? Nothing in the reviews makes it seem unusual.
On food, not sure, it’s been such a long time since I’ve been there. But the local fish and seafood are excellent. Also the cheeses.
Main things to see: the area around Diocletian’s palace, which over the millennia has been subdivided into many other things. Peek around and explore; you’ll find a lot remaining from Roman and early medieval times.
Also the coastline and the Marjan hill are good for a little exercise. And, at night, the promenade is prime for people-watching.
I find it hard to believe that a region’s cuisine can excel in both fish and cheese.
Have you never been to Italy?
What a bizarre thing to say…to have good seafood you just need to be by good waters. The Adriatic is great for that; lots of little islands: Good seafood (fish and oysters). And on the various islands, they make their own cheese from sheep usually. Not as many varieties as France, but what they do make is good.
In my younger days I once went for a jog up Mount Marjan, thinking I was in decent shape and got lapped by the Hajduk Split team out on a training exercise.
Do the walking tour of the old palace (“split walking tours”), I did it earlier this month (group of 5 or 6, 1.5h) and the guide was very good.
Pebble beaches in Brela (1hr by car south) are some of the prettiest in the world.
Marjan is essential. Gorgeous views, and it makes the walk up the bell tower in the palace skipable. Also, if you come down the north side there are quite rock beaches with few people and absolutely ideal swimming. The cathedral/mausoleum is small but interesting inside. It’s pretty wonky shaped for a church, as it wasn’t built to be a church.
Leopald’s Delicatessen Bar–5 min walk from promenade–has Croatian craft beer (!) and a nice selection of Croatian brandies/liquers you can try for a very modest price.
The ice cream tends to be so-so despite being ubiquitous.
Crème de la Crème, tucked away in the maze of palace streets, has solid espresso drinks and excellent cakes. The hazelnut in particular is worth experiencing.
Break all your rules and eat dinner in the twilight in a (very boring) tourist restaurant… inside the original walls of Diocletan’s summer palace!!
I hate bland food and there are many tourist places in Croatia which I would rather fast than eat at, but this isn’t about the food and it is very worthwhile I think.
some places I like outside the palace,
– climb the stairs trough old part called Varos to the first viewpoint on Marjan, one can see the whole town and some islands
– walk north on the promenade to the small peninsula Sustipan, it used to be cemetery, now is a nice park on the cliffs, old church and great view on the islands
– further several hundred meters north is the Mestrovic gallery, he was the most known croatian artist (sculptor)
When are you there? I’m on vacation next week so if you want a tour of the palace, let me know, I would be happy to do it.
Visit the Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb. I expected a short funny visit. I stayed for 2 hours and found it deeply moving. People send mementos of their lost loves.
Tyler, please visit and give us a review.
Ah: Split. Never mind. But the MoBR is well worth a visit the next time you are in Zagreb
Just who is paying for all this foreign travel you’re doing? If it’s the Commonwealth of Virginia, I think that stinks.
Frequent flyer miles ought to cover the traveling expenses at least.
He makes over $200,000 a year in salary, I think the man can afford to take a vacation.
He gives talks. Mostly invited guest lectures and conferences papers. Moreover, Tyler is considerably more interesting than most academics.
A good starting point is: http://wikitravel.org/en/Split
See: – The historic centre of Split arround Diocletian’s Palace
– St. Duje’s cathedral
– Marjan hill
– walk in Varoš area
Do: – why not to try a match on a popular local football team Hajduk Split (Poljud stadium)?
Eat: – Soparnik – “It is a dough filled with mangold vegetable and baked on fireplace. On top comes olive oil and garlic.”
– Cevapcici – “are small grilled rolls of minced beef, pork, or lamb, or a combination of any of these three.”
Mestrovic gallery for sure. If you want to try Cevapcici buy them at Kantun Paulina. I really like girice, small fried fishes, which you can get at the fish market across Kantun Paulina. Plavac is easily one of the best red vines out there.
Cliff diving by the Harbour. The old roman walls are best apprecited from the Tower you can see the outline of the ancient town, and the cathedral is much better experience when there’s choral music on. Hvar island is a short trip away and beautiful.
Don’t know much about Split without Googling it except I think it’s the place with the island in the middle of the harbour that the Japanese wanted to buy and was Diocletan’s palace. Generally the Baklans serve decent goat, seafood, red wine and cheeses, so I would go for these dishes and don’t go too far off the beaten path, as the region may be heavily mined. Not actual mines as much as tourist traps. Enjoy! And keep in mind the Split Adriatic shoreline has the same topology as the US Pacific Coast (vertical islands rather than horizontal as in the Atlantic side). Enjoy!
According to some guy named Diocletian, the cabbage there is out of sight
Ask around for lamb raised on islands in the Adriatic like Pag and grilled on open fire. The sheep eat grass and herbs that grow in salty soil, which infuses the meat with a salty minerally flavor. Same with the cheese made from their milk.
Food – No Stress Cafe is an excellent outdoor restaurant – solid prosciutto and cheese. That’s the one meal that I miss the most. They usually have music at night as well.
Activity – Climb the Marjan. It’s a light hike up, but worth the view.
I second the first comment regarding Konoba Marjan. It’s a small unassuming space a little ways out of the centre. Have grilled sardines and whatever else you feel like.
If you are lucky, you might stumble across Gary Kasparaov playing chess against 20 people in the Republic Square on your walk back.
Croatia’s not worth much of your time. My advice is to visit Zagreb and then Split.
Get up early and walk the farmer’s and fish market.
For food, try Buffet Fifi (not an american ‘buffet’, just a less fancy restaurant) – excellent stewed meats (name forgotten). It is at the end of the Riva, closer to the Marjan (a hill park at the SW end of the peninsula).
An Adriatic specialty is cuttlefish risotto, so look into getting that; there are also great fish and oysters to be had (although better oysters are a bit further south).
Diocletian’s palace is the prime attraction; at noon there is a Roman ‘show’ in the peristyle – a bit corny but fun. Also, tour the catacombs under the palace – it is quick and a cool respite.
15 minutes outside the city is Kliss Fortress, which was fought over by the Venitians and Turks for hundreds of years. It is more of a ruin now, not from destruction but more from neglect (it no longer served its defensive purpose). But interesting and great views.
There’s a beautiful (and large) park just to the east of the harbor. Go tramp around up there. It is easily reached by walking from the harbor.
I assume you are seeing Diocletian’s Palace, the major and primary tourist site in Split. It is surrounded by a very touristy old town area with many pizzerias, symbolizing Croatia’s place in the European tourism hierarchy as “like Italy, but cheaper”.
Somewhere near there, there is a fish market where they sell whole fish. I have no idea if its authentic enough for you or how it compares in the global hierarchy of fish markets, but buying whole fish from a Croat fisherman sounds like a thing you might.
Mestrovic Gallery, Restoran Sumica and Paski sir (Pag cheese). Avoid cevapi in Dalmatia, it doesn’t compare to that which you get in Bosnia.
Heading to Split as well. Don’t be surprised if an American tourist stops you to say hello.
Oh, and get Punjena Paprika – a pepper stuffed with spiced meat. Excellent!
Beat the heat, go to the beaches or Krka National park for the river. There’s a nice restaurant there and lots of people from all over Eastern Europe
Get a guide for the Palace. it is really wonderful
If you see Paški Sir (Pag cheese), buy it. One of the more delicious cheeses in the world, and it still doesn’t get exported much (though it’s starting…) I lived for a week in coastal Croatia on cheese, sour cherries, and burek and didn’t regret it for a minute. Sadly sour cherry season is over but you can still get the other two.
You have to visit the Meštrović gallery, mentioned above. Farther out his self-named street is a chapel he built that is easily worth the walk. Restaurant Sperun, a short walk off the main waterfront promenade, has charm. The old quarter is perhaps too thick with backpackers, but I liked stumbling across taverns in the narrow passageways. …And the Gallery of Fine Arts is a sturdy museum. …Would you consider the short drive/boat trip to Trogir? Beautiful little town, and a Unesco site.
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I highly recommend Pikulece, a small “tapas” restaurant inside the old city walls on Dominisova. Everything was delicious, but the chicken gizzards were revelatory, and I’m not generally a fan of organ meat. Creative menu, stellar execution.
Paradox is good as well, but less interesting in my mind.
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