Is the Great Chocolate Stagnation over?

by on September 10, 2017 at 12:25 am in Food and Drink, Science | Permalink

I say no, but some disagree:

There hasn’t been an innovation in the world of chocolate since the white variant was introduced in 1930, which is fine because — in the immortal words of Cogsworth in “Beauty and the Beast” — if ain’t baroque, don’t fix it.

But still, we’d never turn away a new kind of creamy, chocolate-y thing to munch on while we binge-watch Netflix.

And thanks to some Swiss chocolate scientists over at Barry Callebaut — the world’s leading manufacturer of the good stuff, producing 1.8 million tons of cocoa every year and with a revenue of almost $10 billion — that’s exactly what we’re getting. A brand new chocolate flavor called Ruby, developed from the Ruby Cocoa bean, colored a pleasingly millennial pink hue and that tastes like sweet, sweet berries despite having no added color or flavoring.

“Ruby chocolate is the fourth type of chocolate [after milk, white and dark] and is an intense sensorial delight,” a spokesperson for Barry Callebaut said after launching the chocolate to a panel of experts in China.

Here is the (noisy) link, via the excellent Samir Varma.

1 A Truth Seeker September 10, 2017 at 12:39 am

And yet cocoa from my home state, Espírito Santo, and from the neighbouring Bahia state are widely considered the world best by bromatologists.

2 Ray Lopez September 10, 2017 at 12:51 am

Really? Are you in Brazil? Some good chocolate comes from the Philippines, from the south Davao region, and in fact we have cocoa plants in our backyard, we make balls of it, pure cocoa, it’s good. I prefer chocolate with high cocoa, though anything above 70% gets a bit too bitter. In the USA please make sure your chocolate is ‘fair sourced’. Almonds and milk go good with chocolate.

Bonus trivia: “Bromatologists” means, literally, stink-o-logists in Greek.

3 Mark Thorson September 10, 2017 at 12:55 am

Globalization is pushing us backward. Godiva eliminated liquor-filled pralines for various reasons having to do with the religion of Islam, according to rumors and speculation.

The last reason makes sense. I suppose there might be some rule that you can’t get Halal certification for confections made in a factory that also makes liquor-filled pralines, even if they don’t sell liquor-filled pralines in Islamic countries.

4 Thor September 10, 2017 at 1:18 am

The head hacking was bad. The attempt to resurrect the Caliphate was not good. The lone wolf nutcases driving their vans into crowds of innocents was appalling. But if this brazen attempt to eliminate liquor filled chocolate succeeds, dammit, we will really have give these Salafists a stern talking to!

5 prior_test3 September 10, 2017 at 1:34 am

So, these places where Godiva never needed to pull out as it could not legally sell its liquor filled products due to the concerns of people living there? Were you complaining about them in the past? ‘Combine two favorite indulgences—candy and liquor—and you’ve got a distinct gift or treat for the holiday season and other celebratory occasions.

And that would be a gift or treat for the grown ups. Because of the alcohol content, customers have to be over 21 to buy many spiked candies. (They’re banned outright in some states.) These are sophisticated confections, made with high-quality ingredients and filled or infused with top-shelf wine, spirits or beer.


Some buyers need to navigate tricky selling rules around alcohol-filled or -infused candies that vary by state.“In Pennsylvania, we aren’t allowed to carry any of that stuff,” notes Doug Alprin, owner of Village Candy in Pittsburgh. “Around the holidays, I wanted to order those little chocolate bottles with liqueur in them, but the state liquor control board said no.”

Regulations on many of these confections are a patchwork that vary from state to state, with 16 states outlawing candies with alcohol completely.’

16 sharia law states already in the U.S. – who knew?

6 Thor September 10, 2017 at 3:48 am

Old laws in the books is not the same thing as trying to stem the dark chocolate deliciousness of modernity, Prior.

However, irrationality is widespread. For instance, my Buddhist friends frown on alcohol to such an extent — because even minimal intoxication allegedly inhibits insightful meditation — that they won’t have “alcohol” filled chocolates in their homes.

7 prior_test3 September 10, 2017 at 4:48 am

‘that they won’t have “alcohol” filled chocolates in their homes’

And what possible business would it be of yours whatever anyone has in their house? This may sound strange to you, but there are some people that won’t allow the remains of certain dead animals in their house either, whether the dead animal is swine, cattle, or horses. And so what?

Though if you wish to insult southern Baptists along with Buddhists for what they allow into their homes, it isn’t as if you are in the wrong place at this graciously hosted web site.

8 A Truth Seeker September 10, 2017 at 10:11 am

Alcohol is a poison that destroys people’s minds, bodies, families, communities and nations.

9 Tom T. September 10, 2017 at 1:57 am

Surely coming soon: Clear Chocolate.

10 Evans_KY September 10, 2017 at 8:13 am

1. The only good use for white chocolate is as a complement to dark chocolate.

As Megan Garber wrote, “White chocolate, to be clear, isn’t even chocolate. It is a product of chocolate’s aftermath: It is composed largely of cocoa butter—vegetable fat—that has basically been remaindered from the Vaseline lotion factory and then mixed with a sweetening agent and then squirted into foil and sold at a markup under the guise of confectionary indulgence, probably also under the direction of Big Chocolate.”–

2. Pink? Is this a shill to the ladies? What an insult. Focus on flavor and texture, please. Grainy, waxy and flat are boring.

3. Mainstream chocolate is lifeless. The best confections are from small chocolatiers which are now available on the Internet. They are playing with different origins and flavor combinations similar to wine blending.

11 dearieme September 10, 2017 at 8:37 am

“Pink? Is this a shill to the ladies? What an insult. Focus on flavor and texture, please. Grainy, waxy and flat are boring.” I don’t think I know any ladies who are grainy, waxy and flat.

12 msgkings September 10, 2017 at 10:39 am

You haven’t met Mrs. Sam Haysom then.

13 Dick the Butcher September 10, 2017 at 9:20 am

Chocolate-covered bacon . . .

Chocolate martini . . .

Keep in mind. Candy is dandy. But, liquor is quicker. And, diamonds are a girl’s best friend.

14 Slugger September 10, 2017 at 10:54 am

This is where genetic engineering could really shine. Put peanut genes into the chocolate plant. A chocolate/peanut bean would be big!

15 Axa September 10, 2017 at 1:07 pm

To serve with a bottle of Geneva blue wine?

16 Urethra Franklin September 11, 2017 at 2:02 am

Why kind of dude likes chocolate?

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