In the past few months I have noticed a terrible trend in fancy restaurants, dust. Dust, not on the floor mind you, but on the food especially the desserts. The trend, for example, is to nestle ice cream in a bed of chocolate dust. Not chocolate chunks or even bits but a chocolate grit that ruins the elegant smoothness of the ice cream–like eating ice cream that has been dropped in the sand. Apologies in advance for the name dropping but the guilty include Marcus Samuellson at Aquavit, Wylie Dufresne at WD-50, Martin Rios at Restaurant Martin and Passion Fish in Virginia.
Dust is evil.