The economics of fashion
One of my two talks today is on this topic.
Obviously fashion is a signal and maybe it is also a relatively efficient signal. To the extent signals are wasteful (debatable of course, given sorting considerations), you want a signal which does not have much free entry — to limit rent-seeking costs – and a signal whose price is greater than marginal cost, to limit total costs of production. High couture satisfies these requirements to some degree.
Here is a short essay on the economics of fashion. Here is McClure, Coelho, and others on the economics of fashion.