This is still the land of the $76 veal chop, and that is not at Michelin-starred restaurants. You will do better by seeking out ethnic food on and around Rue de Monthoux, which is in center city and concludes right by the lake. At an Indian-Iranian restaurant just off this street, Royal India, I had perhaps the best fesenjan in memory.
Due to lost bank secrecy, international banks are leaving Geneva, and Swiss watch exports are falling. The view of the lake is still beautiful, and some of the lake shore real estate now seems to be empty. The swans are still all white, however.
Barbier-Mueller is piece for piece one of the higher quality museums in the world, mostly African and Oceanic items, and currently they have a good show on media of exchange with artistic qualities.
Center city now seems to be at least fifty percent immigrants, and I am not referring to the numerous French and Germans who settle in Switzerland. This was not what I was expecting the first time I saw Geneva in 1985. It is a livelier city, but it still radiates that old, vague sense of dullness.