Category: Food and Drink
How to avoid stale or sour milk: large vs. small containers
I have an arbitrary aesthetic preference for the heavier, larger milk containers and now I am wondering if there is an efficiency argument for them as well. A few times lately I've bought the smaller containers and — it seems to me — they turn out to be stale and sour pretty often. That's hardly rigorous data, but I have been pondering theory. Why might the larger containers be fresher? I can think of a few reasons:
1. If you buy three small containers instead of one large container, you might end up consuming the oldest container last, leading to a stale result. We are all sloppy in checking expiration dates.
2. The large containers are expected to sit around your fridge longer. So when they are put out on the shelf by the grocery store, there is a greater margin of error built in, vis-a-vis their freshness.
3. When shoppers choose the larger cartons, they find it harder to paw through the selection and take home the freshest, thus leaving the stalest for other buyers and increasing the variance of freshness/staleness in the overall supply. You are less likely to end up with "the leftovers."
4. Whether you buy large or small containers, there is "container overlap" in your refrigerator. With the large containers, you can (and should!) sample the quality of your next container before finishing your previous container. In doing so, you learn about the viability of your milk supply for days to come and you can react accordingly if the container-to-come is stale. You won't and shouldn't open three smaller containers to get a comparable preview of the milk-to-come across such a long time period.
Have I missed any arguments?
How many of these arguments, if any, imply that married people are happier than single people with serial relationships?
Ferran Adrià confuses us
He now states that El Bulli will not close permanently but rather after a hiatus it will become a foundation. Kottke parses. My theory is that he doesn't know what he is going to do, but in the meantime he wishes to avoid negative publicity or seeming irrelevant.
Don't take this personally my foundation-employed readers but…um…I don't feel you have the appropriate organizational form for running the world's best restaurant. When it comes to the $300 meal, I'll stick with the for-profits. Maybe someone needs to give Adrià a copy of those Fama papers from 1980 or so.
What happens when you get drunk?
Malcolm Gladwell presents a hypothesis which I hadn't heard before:
Put a stressed-out drinker in front of an exciting football game and he’ll forget his troubles. But put him in a quiet bar somewhere, all by himself and he’ll grow mare anxious. Alcohol's principal effect is to narrow our emotional and mental field of vision.
It causes, “a state of short- sightedness in which superficially understood, immediate aspects of experience have a disproportionate influence on behavior and emotion." Alcohol makes the thing in the foreground even more salient and the in the background disappear. That’s why drinking makes you think you are attractive when the world thinks otherwise: the alcohol removes the little constraining voice from the outside world that normally keeps our self-assessments in check. Drinking relaxes the man watching football because the game is front and center, and alcohol makes every secondary consideration fade away. But in a quiet bar his problems are front and center and every potentially comforting or mitigating thought recedes. Drunkenness is not disinhibition. Drunkenness is myopia.
The gated link is here. One of the associated researchers with this point — Claude Steele — is the twin brother of Shelby Steele. Robert Josephs has done some of the related work with Steele. You can buy their core piece for $11.95. Here is an interesting piece by Steele on how "drinking away your troubles" works. Here is a very useful survey piece by Josephs (and others) on the "alcohol myopia" hypothesis.
Here is an hour-long interview with Steele (which I have not heard). Steele is now Provost at Columbia University.
Why was El Bulli losing so much money?
Leigh Caldwell offers an analysis. Here is one bit:
…why is it losing so much money when demand is so high? The 48-seat restaurant has a six-month season with about 8,000 covers a year. It receives 300,000 applications for those seats [though this article says a million and this one two million], selling out the whole year's reservations on the same day that bookings open for the season. Why wouldn't they bump up the price from 230 to 330 euros, to simultaneously manage demand and eliminate the losses? Price elasticity can't be that high.
My hypothesis is that the restaurant was never intended to turn a profit, but rather it was a loss leader for book sales, endorsements, lecture fees, TV contracts, cookware lines, and so on for Ferran Adria. Even if higher prices could bring in a twenty percent rate of profit, it wouldn't — at this point — be worth keeping the place up and running. Adria already has a reputation as the world's greatest chef, running the world's greatest restaurant. It's best to quit while ahead and branch out into food-related money-making ventures.
The low prices make going a hard-to-obtain event, open up the restaurant to more people than just the very wealthy, and maximize the publicity value of Adria's name.
He won't and can't stop cooking forever, but cooking six months a year is probably not an optimum for him at this point. The real profit and loss calculation for El Bulli has to include the shadow price of his labor as an important variable.
America’s best BBQ?
Could it be Lonnie Ray's BBQ, in Harrisburg, Missouri? That's about half an hour outside of Columbia, Missori. I ate there yesterday and I am still staggered by the encounter. It is one of the two or three best barbecue experiences of my life and possibly #1. It doesn't seem to be written up by any of the standard sources (here is one good web review).
The proprietor, Mike, is also a true scientist and scholar and gentleman. He studied with Mike Mills and he will engage you at length on how to render fresh lard, why Kansas City barbecue has declined, and the importance of the wood source. He has studied — and I do mean studied — Texan, Kansas City, and even North Carolina styles. The pulled pork was my favorite dish and I usually don't like pulled pork much at all. Both the sauces and the atmosphere get an A+ as well. He is now studying how to cook tamales. If only everyone in the scientific community had his attitude.
I am serious in my claims for this place.
Here is their Facebook page, you know what to do.
Why is tomato juice so popular in airplanes?
Is it? With Germans, at least. There's now been some research supported by Lufthansa:
Bei dem im Flugzeug herrschenden niedrigen Luftdruck steigt die sogenannte Geruchs- und Geschmacksschwelle – Kräuter, Gewürze, Salz und Zucker müssen höher dosiert werden, um wahrgenommen zu werden. Man rieche die Speisen und Getränke "als hätte man einen Schnupfen", sagte Burdack-Freitag der Zeitung. Salz werde 20 bis 30 Prozent, Zucker 15 bis 20 Prozent weniger intensiv geschmeckt.
During a flight, everything tastes quite a bit weaker, as if you had a cold. You might think die deutschen would turn to Sichuan Chili Chicken, but no…Tomatensaft!
I thank Herr Rothschild for the pointer.
The economics of supermarkets in snow storms
Bryan Caplan raises an excellent puzzle, following his visit to the supermarket (I can confirm similar observations, even earlier in the day):
They were out of milk and bread, but there was still plenty of cheese and chocolate. That was easily explained – people knew they could shop again in a few days, so they only needed to stock up on staples. But the more I looked around, the more puzzled I was.
Here's what I noticed: For any given type of product, the most popular brand always sold out first. There were no Eggo waffles, but plenty of Wegmans brand waffles. All the national brands of hot dogs and sausages were gone, but there were plenty of obscure sausages still on the shelves. If you broadened the categories, the pattern remained. In produce, all the bananas were gone, but there were still plenty of apples.
You might say, "What's the puzzle? Of course the most popular stuff sells out first." But that's a feeble explanation. After all, if X is ten times more popular than Y, then you'd expect stores to simply carry ten times as much X as Y. Why would X sell out faster in a blizzard if stores have already taken its greater popularity into account?
I see it like this. When visits to the store are in "normal times," the store weighs "mass goods" vs. "niche goods" when stocking the shelves. Some niche goods will be given shelf space because they get some minority of customers into the store in the first place. (I go to Whole Foods for Spelt Flakes, two or three key cheeses, and my favorite dark chocolate. While I'm there, I end up paying the higher prices for their milk and green peppers, neither of which is better for me than competing products at Shoppers Food Warehouse.) If the store stocks too few niche goods, it attracts too few niche-oriented customers and loses money on milk, meat, etc.
Note also that the niche buyers tend to hold stocks of their favored goods, so if they have a sudden, unexpected supermarket trip, they don't necessarily need to buy more.
Enter the snowstorm. People are forced to visit the store, more or less. The previous calculations of mass vs. niche goods are no longer appropriate for the new emergency. The store, temporarily, would prefer to have more mass goods and fewer niche goods. The niche goods served the function of "motivating 47 visits a year rather than 23" but in the new short run they are nearly useless for this purpose. We will see too many of them left on the shelves.
Read Bryan's comments section as well. I pondered the "rate of restocking" answers, but slow turnover and slow inventories imply a higher profit margin (if the product can compete for shelf space) and I believe for this to work it has to invoke customer heterogeneity in some manner, as I have done above.
Addendum: Imagine the same problem in the context of a book store. There is an emergency edict which requires everyone to read three newly purchased books over the next week. Borders will be swamped, They will end up short on bestsellers, not their niche books.
Markets in everything
Anti-theft lunch bags. Here is the description:
…a few spots of mold may work wonders to protect your precious sandwich when your custom labels, pleading requests and desperate detective work fail to find your regular at-work lunch thief. Reusable, resealable, one-size-fits-all and ready to go right out of the box (or brown paper bag), these clever little containers from Think of The might seem more like a prank object or gag toy than a functional product but it will almost certainly deter even the hungriest of would-be food hackers.
For the pointer I thank Lawrence Rothfield, author of this excellent book.
Getting drunk as signaling behavior
Here is the abstract, I look forward to reading the paper:
It is argued that drug consumption, most commonly alcohol drinking, can be a technology to give up some control over one’s actions and words. It can be employed by trustworthy players to reveal their type. Similarly alcohol can function as a “social lubricant” and faciliate type revelation in conversations. It is shown that both separating and pooling equilibria can exist; as opposed to the classic results in the literature, a pooling equilibrium is still informative. Drugs which allow a gradual loss of control by appropriate doses and for which moderate consumption is not addictive are particularly suitable because the consumption can be easily observed and reciprocated and is unlikely to occur out of the social context. There is a trade-off between the efficiency gains due to the signaling effect and the loss of productivity associated with intoxication. Long run evolutionary equilibria of the type distribution are considered. If coordination on an exclusive technology is efficient, social norms or laws can raise efficiency by legalizing only one drug.
I thank Brian Dailey for the pointer.
Very good sentences
"A Shanghai hospital cultivated and reintroduced human brain tissue in 2002 after taking a sample from the end of a chopstick implanted in a patient's frontal lobe following a disagreement at a restaurant."
The article, on scientific, medical, and regenerative research in China, is interesting throughout. For the pointer, I thank MR commentator JamieNYC.
Which are the “safest” cuisines?
James Hinckley asks:
Which cuisine are you most likely to be satisfied with when dining out? Which disappoints you the least # of visits?
If you were at a shopping center you’ve never been to before and it has one restaurant of each cuisine and your goal was to simply be satisfied (you’re not looking to be blown away, you just don’t want a bad experience), which cuisine do you pick?
Korean is perhaps the safest bet, for two reasons. First, non-Koreans are not usually interested in the food. They might enjoy Bul-Gogi but there will be plenty of other dishes for Korean patrons and these will not be “dumbed down.” The lack of mainstream interest limits the potential for sell-out behavior on the part of the restaurant. Second, many Korean dishes, most of all the pickled vegetables, “travel” relatively well and do fine in a culture — the USA — which is not obsessed with fresh ingredients.
The most dangerous cuisine to try, in the United States at least, is Chinese. Your best working assumption is that the restaurant simply isn’t any good. Even in a Chinatown, such as in New York or DC, most of the restaurants aren’t very good. Inverting the two principles mentioned above puts you on a path toward figuring out why. Still, even in Paris or most of Europe for that matter, most of the Chinese restaurants aren’t very good.
I find also that (in the U.S.) Mexican restaurants are risky, Vietnamese establishments are relatively safe, and Thai places were traditionally safe but they are becoming riskier. I’ve never been to a bad Nepalese restaurant.
China fact of the day
A Chinese policeman who died after drinking too much at a banquet he was made to attend has been deemed a martyr who died in the line of duty, in an apparent attempt to meet his family's demands for compensation, a state-run newspaper said.
The story is here, via Daniel Lippman. If you're looking for China estimate of the day, it is this:
Chinese academics have estimated that government officials spend about 500 billion yuan ($73 billion) in public funds each year on official banquets, nearly one-third of the nation's expenses on dining out.
How to avoid being fooled by a menu
This one is not so easily excerptable, but it's one of the best pieces-with-graphics I've seen all year. It's about all the "nudge" tricks which go into designing menus, and how to avoid being fooled by them.
You really do need the image with it (best is to buy the New York issue), but if you insist on an excerpt, here's one:
5. Columns Are Killers
According to Brandon O’Dell, one of the consultants Poundstone quotes in Priceless, it’s a big mistake to list prices in a straight column. “Customers will go down and choose from the cheapest items,” he says. At least the Balthazar menu doesn’t use leader dots to connect the dish to the price; that draws the diner’s gaze right to the numbers. Consultant Gregg Rapp tells clients to “omit dollar signs, decimal points, and cents†‰…†‰It’s not that customers can’t check prices, but most will follow whatever subtle cues are provided.”
The new html edition of Tyler Cowen’s Ethnic Dining Guide
You'll find it here, namely on my home page (you may need to scroll down). This version of the guide has more revisions than any other new edition, mostly because there has been a lot of quality turnover. More than half of the "Top 20" list has changed in the course of a year. Currently my two favorite places are Sichuan Pavilion and Abay Market (you now can and indeed have to order vegetables in advance), with Thai X-ing a perennial. Komi is the "finest" dining and Bourbon Steak is the place most likely to be better than you think.
I should note that if you've been following the blog version of my dining guide, the html version is simply a print-it-all-out-at-once compendium, rather than a source of new information.
Markets in everything: randomized pizza prices
Sébastian Turben writes to me:
It's about a restaurant where at the end of your meal, you roll 3 dice, and if you get the combination 4-3-1 you don't have to pay…I guess what makes it work is that people will tend to eat more/more expensive that what they usually do, thinking that the proba[bility] of not paying is not that small…
The link, in French, is here. I take this as evidence against the view that people systematically miscalculate expected utility in repeated, real market settings. If they did, you would expect to see commercial lures like this much more often. Maybe in mortgage markets, or credit card markets, people are overoptimistic about the bad (too many floating rate mortgages or too many people accepting the risk of high default fees), but I don't think in pizza markets they are overoptimistic about the good. A restaurant which makes this kind of offer, of course, has to charge systematically higher prices, the greater the customer's chance of winning the lottery,
Addendum: Jeff Ely considers a related example.