Category: Food and Drink

Central American sour cream stand-off, Markets in everything

Following a perceptive query from Kevin Drum, I bought and sampled sour creams from El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, and Mexico, all from my local Mundo Latino supermarket.

The Honduran cream had a taste and consistency somewhat like that of the El Salvadoran cream.  Yet the cream from El Salvador was sweeter in a nice way; this came more to the fore when each cream was combined with a tamale.  The Guatemalan cream tasted noticably worse than either — flatter, heavier, and less tart/tangy.  Its label indicated it had a much higher level of saturated fat and cholesterol.

The Mexican cream was different altogether.  One Kevin Drum reader commented:

Mexican crema is yellowish and buttery. Salvadoran is whiter and tangier. American is lighter, firmer and more yogurty.

Of the creams from El Salvador, the best ones are in the small plastic bags, not the plastic containers.  If you have the feeling you don't know how to store the thing once you open it, that's the one you should buy.

Those are the supermarket brands.  The very best sour cream I've had was in Nicaragua, where the poverty and underdevelopment have kept the food supply chain shorter and fresher, albeit at the cost of higher food prices relative to real wages.  San Salvador has much more fast food than does Managua, for instance.  But they don't have mass produced Nicaraguan sour cream in my local supermarket, perhaps because relatively few Nicaraguans live in northern Virginia.

Here is comment from a retailer who appreciates the diversity of the creams.

The Chilean mine diet

The miners have lost about 10kg each after having survived on half a glass of milk and two mouthfuls of canned tuna every 48 hours until supplies ran out. They have been told to watch their weight so they will be able to squeeze through the narrow escape shaft that is being drilled, and given tape measures to ensure they keep their waists below 90cm.

The article is here; they are also being sent "games"; I wonder which ones?  There are many articles (Sp.) about the miners receiving solidarity from Chilean soccer players and institutions.  A formerly trapped Australian miner recommends that the trapped Chilean miners keep "a good sense of humor."  Right now they are gradually increasing their rations of cereal and hard-boiled eggs.

Assorted Links

1)  "The justification to ban the mosque is no more rational than banning a
soccer field in the same place because all the suicide bombers loved to
play soccer."  Ron Paul on the mosque controversy.

2) Interesting review (pdf) of the health care bill from NCPA.

3) Philosopher Galen Strawson defends my most absurd belief.

4) "We've learned more about cooking in the past 15 years than we had in the previous 15,000 years." Video interview with Wylie Dufresne. By the way, I don't think this is true–we have learned more why but the previous 15,000 years developed a lot of how.  Surprising amount of political psychology in cooking, how to sell an unfamiliar food idea.  FYI, don't forget the book.

Why are there so few cheap restaurants in Anacostia?

I had lunch there lately, in the new and excellent Ray's the Steaks, East River edition (superb chili, fried chicken, mac and cheese; recommended).  Yet I drove around the general area for about forty minutes and hardly saw any other restaurants to speak of.  The five or six other times I've been to Anacostia I had similar impressions, even more than in other "ghetto" areas I have visited.  

What might be possible explanations?

1. Poverty: Yet there are other retail establishments and per capita income there is surely not so low.  Plenty of poor countries have plenty of restaurants.

2. Risk and crime: Yet you will see other cash-intensive retail businesses in Anacostia.  Is it so hard to hire a guard?

3. Traffic: It is easy to get in and out of Anacostia, so perhaps residents drive to eat out elsewhere.

4. Diversity:  Perhaps it is the demand for different kinds of food which increases the number of restaurants; yet Anacostia is not so ethnically diverse, as it is heavily African-American.

5. Labor supply: Cheap restaurants rely on low-wage laborers who do not have cars, and it is actually fairly hard to get to, and get around, Anacostia.

6. Proximity to business lunch demand.  Not so much.

7. Fast food: You will find McDonald's and Subway in Anacostia.  Since they serve high volumes, maybe that lowers the total number of restaurants needed.  This is related to #4.

8. Foot traffic: Not so much, although the suburbs deal with this problem just fine.

What do you think are the major factors?  What have I failed to list?

In the 12:30 to 2 lunch slot, the Ray's across the Anacostia river was never more than half full, though a Ray's elsewhere will be quite crowded during those hours.  In all fairness, this Ray's has not been around for long.

I thank Ross Douthat for a useful conversation on this topic.

Markets in everything

Artisanal toothpicks:

Established in 1704, Saruya is the only shop in Japan specializing in toothpicks. Of course our toothpicks are not the machine-made, mass-produced items you find anywhere, but hand-crafted, quality toothpicks made from “kuromoji” or spicewood (lindera). Kuromoji is a member of the camphor (linden) family, and besides its fine aroma, it is flexible and hard to break, making it an ideal material for toothpicks.
In addition to regular-use toothpicks, we also make toothpicks to use like a fork for eating slices of fruit or Japanese sweets. Depending on the product, toothpicks might be packaged in a wooden box, or individually wrapped in paper, etc.

At five dollars a box, they are cheaper than artisanal pencil sharpenings.

Corn tamale home recipe

Here is another reader request:

more tyler cowen home recipes. previous installments have been helpful thanks.

Lately I have been buying frozen corn tamales ("tamale de elote") from a Latin supermarket or Shoppers Food Warehouse.  Steam them, wrapped, for ten to twelve minutes.  Serve with El Salvadoran white sour cream on top or to the side.  (Honduran or Guatemalan white sour cream will do in a pinch.)  You also can heat up some Goya small red beans, with a bit of freshly ground cumin and ideally some fresh stock.  For the ambitious, make the stock from celery, black pepper, salt, onion slices, pork neck, and one ancho chile, but the beans taste fine on their own.

It's one of the easiest good meals I know and its a way to bring some deflation into your life.

Unusual questions from loyal blog readers

To what extent can someone who is starving cannibalize his/her self to stay alive? My logic in asking you this question was not, "I'm curious about cannibalism, let me ask the food critic." It was more along the lines of "This is a really obscure and somewhat far-fetched idea and question, Dr. Cowen would probably be the best person to present it to because of his wide range of knowledge and access to an intelligent readership."

That's from M.E.  My answer is: "to a limited extent."  By the way, I am giving a talk tonight, and there is a (substantial) prize being offered for the best question from the audience.

Weight Loss and Incentives

Ted Frank reports on his 60k weight-loss bet with Ray Lehmann:

In late 2008, Ray Lehmann and I made an audacious bet: we would put up $60,000 that we would lose 60 pounds in nine months, and pay each other $1,000 for each pound the other lost. 

…I lost 32 pounds, Ray lost 41, and we were on pace to lose 60 each. StickK.com was offering to make us their official spokespeople.

Then things fell apart. We couldn't negotiate an appropriate contract with StickK, which wanted exclusive rights to our story without any compensation. The delay caused us to stop writing about the diet while we had false dreams of fame and glory from StickK promotion, and then we both got distracted with starting new jobs and the disappointment of shattered expectations when StickK stopped returning our calls.

Alex Tabarrok correctly predicted that the danger of the two-person bet was that we would collude not to enforce it.

And, indeed that was what happened. We started gaining weight, and started pushing back the goal-line for the end of the bet…neither of us held the other's feet to the fire….

Professor Tabarrok's solution was to create a third-party Leviathan to enforce the bet: he facetiously offered to pay us $500 to be the collector [not facetious, Ted!, AT]. Of course, that was a negative-expectation transaction for each of us, unless we thought we had a 90%+ chance of succeeding…Even the threat of public humiliation on Marginal Revolution wasn't enough to stop us from colluding.

But Ted isn't giving up.  He is looking for other people to take the bet to reduce the possibility of collusion or he would like to auction off leviathan rights.

Are there three other people out there willing to wager that they can lose 50 pounds over a reasonable amount of time? (Forty? Sixty?) Who's in, and under what conditions?

…In the alternative, how much is someone willing to pay to be Leviathan and have the opportunity to collect tens of thousands of dollars from me or Ray for failing to lose weight? I suppose I could put Leviathan rights up on eBay; if Marginal Revolution and a few other blogs publicized it, we could reach a good solid equilibrium price. What do people think?

I see this is as a good case study in the difficult of setting up an appropriate incentive scheme and also the difficulty of losing weight. When I put on my Tyler hat, however, I have to wonder whether all this effort put into clever incentive schemes is not a way of avoiding the real issues.  "Less blogging, more jogging," my friends.

What Ted and Ray are trying to do is to sail between Scylla and Charybdis by offsetting the pull of food with the pull of lost money. Carrot cake versus stick. But in this tug of war, how long will the balance last? How permanent will the weight loss be?

The real trick in weight loss, as in other areas of life, is to change wants not oppose them. Unfortunately, Seth Roberts nothwithstanding, this is a struggle with no easy solutions.

Nevertheless, I have proudly helped others to lose weight with unusual incentives, and my $500 bid for leviathan rights over Ted and Ray still stands. Good luck guys.

Elephant Jumps, Thai food in Merrifield

8110 A Arlington Blvd, Falls Church, 22042, (703) 942-6600, in the Yorktowne Center, more on Gallows than Route 50, home page here.

Home-style Thai food, with four levels of spicy, culminating in “Thai spicy.”  It’s not as good as Thai X-ing, but it’s probably better than any other local Thai competitor.  They will watch you sweat and they will giggle.


Here is one good review of the restaurant.  Here is a short bit on how elephants were viewed in antiquity.  Here is my favorite book on elephants


After we exchanged impressions of the other local Thai restaurants, the proprietor said to me: “You know a lot about food and you get around — you should be a food critic.  You could write up what you think about all these places!”


If we’re not going to have much more economic growth, we can at least have a few locales like this.  

From the Korean taco story

“The meat makes it Korean,” said Mr. Ban, who marinates chuck roll in a soy and garlic sauce that is traditionally used with Korean barbecue dishes. “The tortilla and the toppings are a way to tell our customers that this food is O.K., that this food is American.”

The link is here and I thank Roland Stephen for the pointer.  I had read right over that passage and didn't even notice anything funny.

Close substitutes vs. perfect substitutes

For me, pluots and grapes are close substitutes, though not perfect substitutes.

Let's say a house visitor brings a big bag of pluots as a gift.  That distorts my optimum pluot-grape ratio.  But I don't eat all the pluots at once, simply to restore the preferred ratio.  That would be an unbalanced meal.  Instead, I dig into the pluot bag at a higher rate than I would normally eat pluots.  Over a longer period of time the proper ratio is restored, pluot by pluot. 

The closer pluots and grapes are as substitutes, the longer it takes for equilibrium restoration.  But the closeness of substitution is not always the major factor determining the speed of adjustment.  It may be just as important, or more important, how hungry I am, how much of a glutton I am, and how much I like pluots.  It also matters whether I am fearing a large shock, requiring a major pluot reserve, such as when a bevy of pluot-devouring guests might suddenly visit the house.  

In any case, equilibrium restoration eventually comes.  Those pluots will clear my refrigerator, sooner or later.

Apply a similar analysis to cash and T-Bills.  At low nominal interest rates they are close substitutes but not perfect substitutes.  T-Bills are of greater use for clearinghouse collateral, and yield a bit more, but they are not liquid in exactly the same ways.  Even if cash and T-Bills are close substitutes, monetary policy will change the banks' mix and so banks eventually will reequilibrate, converting extra cash into AD, one way or another.  But as with the pluot adjustment, this won't happen all at once.

Equilibration (and the accompanying AD boost) may be slow, maybe too slow for comfort.  But the degree of substitutability is not the only factor determining the speed of this adjustment, just as with the pluots.   The degree of bank and business confidence may be the most important factor.  Other factors will be the cues from the Fed, the corporate cultures of the banks, possible uncertainty, transactional frictions (the difference in returns is small but perhaps the cost of adjusting is small too), and so on.  The degree of substitutability is one factor determining the speed of adjustment but not necessarily a major factor.  I am not sure it should be put in the top three most important factors.

The zero bound argument assumes that the degree of substitutability is, at current margins, the major factor which matters.  You are being "sold" a model of portfolio adjustment with one dominant factor.

Monetary policy is not working well today, but perhaps bank and business confidence is a bigger reason than the degree of substitutability.  From those who promote the relevance of the "zero bound" argument, you will see it implicitly assumed that we have a case of perfect substitutes and that substitutability is the major factor hindering portfolio adjustment, as would lead to an expansion of the broader money supply aggregates.

In many models "close substitutes" and "perfect substitutes" have very different properties.  Current discussions of the liquidity trap usually neglect this point.

Addendum: This is also a framework for thinking about ceasing to pay interest on reserves.  If it creates perfect substitutes, stop the policy immediately.  If it creates closer substitutes, it may matter much less.

*Steak*, by Mark Schatzker

Roughly 98 percent of cattle do live to see the day the truck from the packing plant pulls up because antibiotics are mixed in with the feed to keep livers and guts from failing.  A certain number are fated to die, however.  Feedlot nutritionists, Williams explained, actually want to see a small percentage get sick, as "that way, they know they're pushing the feed to the edge."  The ones that aren't dying are getting fat fast."

That is from the new and notable book Steak: One Man's Search for the World's Tastiest Piece of Beef.  This book is interesting and substantive on virtually every page and it is one of the best food books I have read in some time.

If you are wondering, the best steaks I have had were (in no order):

1. Kobe Beef in Kobe, Japan.

2. Dry-aged, in Hermosillo, Mexico.

3. Southern Brazil, in small towns outside of Curitiba.

It is rare that I end up eating steak in the United States; I just don't see a good reason to do it.  I also think a lot of steak in B.A. is overrated, as does Schatzker.

Sentences to ponder

Picky eaters tend to gravitate to certain foods, including blander products that are often white or pale colored, like plain pasta or cheese pizza.  For reasons that aren't clear, almost all adult picky eaters like French fries and often chicken fingers, health experts say.

This article gets at some deep questions as to the differences (or possible lack thereof) between disorders, differing capabilities, and differing tastes.  The stories are interesting, but it doesn't get far on developing a good conceptual framework…