Category: Food and Drink
What I’ve been reading
1. Momofuku, by David Chang and Peter Meehan. This Nelson/Winter treatise on industrial organization teaches you the evolution of recipes and restaurants and (most of all) the mistakes made along the way. Smokiness is an important concept in Japanese food, pickling and fermentation are underrated cooking techniques, a cook can learn from a heart surgeon, people will pay $80 for a ribeye steak without fancy decor, and you can cook semi-safe sous vide at home (suck the air out with a straw). Recommended.
2. Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York, by William Grimes. A book like this has to have something interesting and indeed this one does. There is an excellent chapter on how oysters once were "New York City food," akin to lobster in Maine or crab in Maryland. No more. The rest of the book remains oddly distant from the eating experiences of real people and overall I was disappointed.
3. Googled: The End of the World as We Know It, by Ken Auletta. In the abstract this is quite a good book and if someone woke up from a time capsule from 1969 you would start him with this. Too much of it was familiar to me, though.
4. Timothy Egan, Big Burn: Teddy Roosevelt and the Fire that Saved America. Impeccably written and well-researched, but it bored me. Spellbinding portraits of characters, etc. Not enough of a point and of course the fire was not what saved America. Many people like it, though, so don't let me put you off.
5. The Lives of the Brain: Human Evolution and the Organ of Mind, by John S. Allen. A very good Belknap Press introduction to recent research on cognition, especially cognition and language. An antidote to many things you have read in Pinker. It's a bit of a "tweener" book: it doesn't take you "by the hand" through the results but it also doesn't assume that you are a research scientist. It was written at a good level for me, but some readers may wish for more explanation of the results.
Why are Swedish meatballs so much smaller than their American counterparts?
This topic has been knocking around the blogosphere as of late:
I am a longtime reader of MR and there is a question I have been wondering about for a long time. I was hoping you could share your thoughts on meatball heterogeneity. My girlfriend made dinner for me and the entree was Swedish meatballs. I never knew how small their meatballs are. It seems inefficient to roll all that meat into such tiny balls. Wouldn’t it make more sense to roll them into big balls like we do in the US?
First, history + hysteresis play a role. According to Mathistorisk Uppslagsbok by Jan-Ojvind Swahn, the Swedish concept of meatball first appeared in Cajsa Warg's 1754 cookbook. Yet as late as the early 20th century, beef was still a luxury in Swedish culture, whereas meat was plentiful in the United States. America had greater access to game in the more moderate climate and also greater grass resources for supporting cows. The Swedes were also late in benefiting from the refrigerated transport revolution, which started elsewhere in the 1920s and brought more meat to many households. (This tardiness was due to the concentration of population in a small number of cities, combined with rail isolation from Europe.) The end result was smaller meatballs, a tradition which has persisted to this day.
On the plane of pure theory, standing behind the lock-in effect is the Ricardian (or should I say Solowian? Solow is the modern Ricardian when you think through the underlying asymmetries in his model, which ultimately make "capital" non-productive at some margin) fixed factor explanation. A Swedish meatball recipe usually involves much more dairy than a non-Swedish meatball recipe. Constant returns to scale do not in general hold for recipes, much less for loosely packed spherical items involving fluids.
Oddly, the extant literature does not seem to have considered these factors.
From the comments: Lennart writes: "Swedish meatballs, having loads of surface that are fried crispy, are much better than other forms of meatballs for that reason alone. Norwegians and Danish have big meatballs, but that's because they are boiled, so there is no crispy-fried surface to maximize (and hence nowhere near as good)."
Exit decisions: no more Big Mac for Iceland
Iceland’s McDonald’s Corp.
restaurants will be closed at the end of the month after the
collapse of the krona eroded profits at the fast-food chain,
McDonald’s franchise holder Lyst ehf said.
Here is the full story and how about that name "Lyst ehf"? (It does check out.) Is it silly for me to say I find this story just a wee bit scary?
I thank Jason Brennan and Daniel Lippman for the pointers.
Dining tips for Manhattan
JonSanders, a loyal MR reader, asks:
I read "Discover Your Inner Economist" (as well as "Create Your Own
Economy") and I want a little more help with the Manhattan dining tips
you covered. Care to help someone on a serious budget, like say, an
undergrad at NYU? Staying off the main avenues is useful, but it is
still hard to find dirt cheap authentic food from most cultures. More
advice?
I'm was in New York yesterday and I despaired. Short of dropping $50-$70 or more for lunch, it's hard to get a good meal in most of Manhattan. Greenwich Village went mainstream long ago and the overall problems in Manhattan are high rents, rising tourism, and the importation of growing numbers of people from U.S. regions with lesser food taste (can you guess where?). That's a triple whammy. I recommend the following:
1. Eat on the far west or far east side, like 9th Ave. or The Bowery. The East Village hasn't been ruined. The West Village still has some quirky places near The Village Vanguard, usually further west off the main paths. There are good places near Hudson St., the neighborhood Jane Jacobs wrote about.
2. Eat on the way to or from LaGuardia in Flushing, Queens, in superb Chinatown. If you try the Chinatown in Manhattan, go for breakfast — not dinner — for the best chance at quality.
3. Look for obscure ethnic places in the mid 30s, on the streets, not the avenues.
4. The best food reviews are in New York magazine, by far.
5. Two of my reliable stand-bys are Ess-a-Bagel and Shun Lee Palace, both in East/Midtown. They're both pretty tired in terms of concept but the quality still is excellent. I enjoy them every time I go. Shun Lee Palace would not count as dirt cheap, however.
6. Get to Brooklyn or Queens. Or (gasp) New Jersey.
What advice can you give this poor fellow?
Leningrad during the Nazi siege
In 2002 secret police records were released. They reveal that during the siege at least 300 people were executed for cannibalism and over 1,400 imprisoned for it.
That is from Michael Jones's compelling Leningrad: State of Siege.
Amazon reviews of milk
Here is a positive (five star) review:
At first, the idea of buying this milk online for hundreds of dollars
seemed absurd. Then I started thinking about the Romans. What would the
Romans think of this? Never mind the milk – the milk is common,
pedestrian, it's just milk. Even Romans had milk. No, it's the plastic
packaging. It is transparent, flexible, seals tightly and lasts
forever. The Romans would have never seen anything like it. So based on
this, I decided to buy something that the Romans would have paid any
amount for. Compared to Romans, I got it for a steal.
The Romans had legions and controlled a wide swath of the Earth.
They were the foundation of western civilization. But they never had a
Tuscan milk jug.
Here is a negative (one star) review:
If you have no weapons, I don't recommend Tuscan Milk. Instead, I
recommend getting a set of nunchucks or a club. A broom stick or a
brick are good too. If you can't find anything at all, you can buy the
book Combat Without Weapons available on Amazon. Tuscan Milk does not
work well as a weapon because it is hard to swing and difficult to
throw. It also can't be used to stop any bullets. I read on a website
that it can stop a knife, once. That's not really worth it to me.
Unless you are attacked by cats, and need a distraction, you probably
don't need Tuscan Milk. I wish someone had written a review like this
before I bought the milk. I hope this review is helpful.
The gallon costs $69.99 on Amazon. I thank Eric H for the pointer.
Addendum: Eric also points me to this review:
"Pros: Inexpensive, easy set up.
Cons: Short product lifecycle. No instruction manual. No optical/coax sound
output."
Meat trends
For every newly converted vegetarian, four poor humans start earning enough money to put beef on the table. In the past three decades, the earth's dominant carnivores have tripled our average per capita consumption; in the next four decades global meat production will double to 465 million tons.
That is from the new book Heart of Dryness: How the Last Bushmen Can Help Us Endure the Coming Age of Permanent Drought, by James G. Workman.
In Bayesian terms, how should I evaluate this book? I cracked it open to one page (never start with the table of contents) and found something interesting and blogworthy. For the random review copy I am sent, the odds of that happening for a single page sample are below 1 in 50.
Why is coca-cola so expensive in Germany?
Matt asks this question and the answers in his comments section cite sugar policy and the VAT. (Matt's comment, at #62, is the best of the lot.) USA Coke also competes with free tap water, which is a no-no in Deutschland. Here is a German site, GuteFrage.net, which asks "Wieso ist Coca-Cola so teuer?" but the answers do not impress. Here is further German language discussion but again Armen Alchian it ain't. This German Yahoo post considers the marginal cost of production.
I am more inclined to cite the elasticity of demand. Here in the US of A people will drink three or four cokes in a row, maybe more. Or they will buy many cans of coke for the whole family along with hot dogs, Twinkies, Hellmann's mayonnaise, and other utility-maximizing commodities. But those high-volume strategies require a fairly low price. I haven't lived in Germany for over twenty years, but my impression at the time was that you would drink one coke at a main meal with your food and that was it. (You also didn't get very much in the Glas, but that's another story.) They're weren't aiming for volume sales by lowering the price, so instead they would focus on the upper left part of the demand curve.
I don't know if Matt is referring to restaurants or vending machines. In restaurants drink prices are arguably a proxy for enjoying the amenities, the table and the service of the wait staff. If the wait staff have higher wages and benefits, due to European labor market regulation, the drink price might be reflecting that higher marginal cost, even if the MC of the drink itself is low relative to price.
People, can you help out on this one?
Crayons
Fatty acids derived from pork bone fat are used as a hardening agent in crayons and also gives them their distinctive smell.
Here is more, including a comparison to Leonard Read.
Andy Warhol would be happy
David Reilly at Bloomberg notes that the pricing of credit default swaps on both the US government debt and Campbell’s is the same…
Here is the link. Hat tip goes to TheBrowser.
Why don’t more people like spicy food?
Andrew, a loyal MR reader, has a request:
Tyler, why don't more people like spicy food? What prevents them from trying spicy dishes?
Mexicans acculturate their small children to spicy food gradually, by mixing increasing amounts of chilies into the meal. It takes a while before the kids enjoy it and at first they don't like it. If this has never been done to you, you need to make the leap yourself, usually later in life. The whole point of spicy food is that at first it is painful, causing the release of endorphins to the brain. With time the pain goes away and you still get the endorphins, although you may seek out an increasingly strong dose to boost the endorphin response.
Not all Americans think this is a good deal. Older people are less likely to make this initial investment and endure the initial pain. The same is true for uneducated people (adjusting for ethnicity), who both are less likely to know it will end up being a source of pleasure and who on average have higher discount rates. What other predictions can be made? If you and your country are too obsessed with dairy you will be led away from spicy food, one way or the other. Milk usually counteracts the pleasing effects of chilies.
Julie & Julia
Julia is great. Julie drags a bit even though the blogger turned book author angle resonated with me (note to self, talk with brother about MR movie possibilities). Oddly, the food is not presented nearly as well as on Top Chef.
The economics of the secret Chinese menu
Jason Kuznicki asks why do they do it? Why don't they make the "secret menu" common knowledge? He gives some answers, including:
Americans have some very set though inaccurate ideas about what
“Chinese food” really is. They will generally balk at anything else.
More people will break this way, and avoid the restaurants, than will
break my way, and go to them more often, if they are offered something
new and different.
I would add that perhaps many Chinese restaurants do not want too many non-Chinese customers. Especially for immigrants, restaurant life is often about ambience, social contacts, and feeling you have a space to call your own. A restaurant cannot be all things to all people and the #1 best way of judging a restaurant is to look at its customers. The "beef with broccoli" menu will attract a certain kind of American customer, but without breaking down the sense of segregation and the basic Chineseness of the place.
That said, there is also the fear that the American customers will order from the secret menu and then not like the chicken feet, etc. and give a bad report to their friends.
Thai restaurants don't have secret menus per se, but often you can talk a so-so restaurant into, for your sake, becoming a very good restaurant with real Thai food.
Assorted link
1. Rant about agriculture, hat tip goes to Ezra Klein.
*Au Revoir To All That*
The subtitle is Food, Wine, and the End of France and the author is Michael Steinberger. This is a very readable and interesting book on France's decline as world culinary leader, building on an informal "economics of cuisine." Even in France I would usually rather eat outside of Paris and this book helps explain why.