Category: Food and Drink
Food in Portugal notes
Many of you recommended the pasteis in Belem, so when we were picked up at the airport we were immediately whisked there: "We know already that you wish to go" was the explanation.
The white asparagus is in season and they stack ham on top of many things, including trout. No other cuisine can make the blend of rabbit and clam seem so natural. A good rule of thumb here is to order game, beans, and any combination of ingredients which sounds like a mistake. The biggest mistake here is to try to replicate the kind of seafood meal you might enjoy in the U.S.
If you prefer Michelin "two-fork restaurants" to their starred alternatives, Portugal is the eating country for you. I haven't seen a single Chinese restaurant. It is Lusaphone eating: for your foreign options, you can find Brazilian, Mozambiquean (good chicken), Cape Verdean, and excellent Goan. French and Italian are rare.
If I had a thousand dissertations to research, one of them would be: "The historical interconnections between the Portuguese dessert and the Calcutta sweets shop."
The fact that I found this post interesting to write makes me fear that Western Europe is not yet an optimum currency area.
The culture that is French, a continuing series
Who said the Europeans don't believe in fiscal stimulus?:
The cost of a long lunch in a French bistro should become
significantly cheaper after Paris won a seven-year battle with the
European Union to allow it to slash the value-added tax on meals.
But
how to pay the unpalatable €3.25bn ($4.2bn) bill taxpayers are being
stuck with is prompting a debate over just what price to extract from
the French restaurant industry.
France savoured victory last week
when it finally won German approval for President Nicolas Sarkozy's
plan to cut VAT on restaurant meals from 19.6 per cent to the EU
minimum of 5.5 per cent.
The article is interesting throughout. Here are previous installments in the series.
A market in something, every now and then
North Korean edition, of course, and now it is pizza:
It has taken almost 10 years of work, but North Korea has acquired the
technology to launch a project very dear to its leader's heart – the
nation's first "authentic" Italian pizzeria…
Last year a delegation of local chefs was sent by Kim to Naples and
Rome to learn the proper Italian techniques after their homegrown
efforts to mimic Italian cuisine were found by Kim to contain "errors".
In
the late 1990s Kim brought a team of Italian pizza chefs to North Korea
to instruct his army officers how to make pizza, a luxury which is now
being offered to a tiny elite able to afford such luxuries in a country
that cannot feed many of its 24 million inhabitants.
Despite the
food shortages high-quality Italian wheat, flour, butter and cheese are
being imported to ensure the perfect pizza is created every time.
"Our
people should be also allowed to enjoy the world-famous food," the
manager of the Pyongyang eatery quoted Kim as saying, according to the
Tokyo-based Choson Sinbo newspaper.
The paper, which is often
seen as a mouthpiece for the communist regime, added the restaurant had
proved to be a major hit after it opened in the capital Pyongyang in
December.
"I've learned through TV and books that pizza and
spaghetti are among the world's famous dishes, but this is the first
time that I've tasted it," Jung Un-Suk, 42, told the newspaper, "They
have unique flavours," she said.
The news that Kim's dream of
making genuine Italian food available in the capital has been realised
comes as North Korea threatens to test-launch a rocket which the US
believes is capable of striking America.
I thank Leonard Monasterio for the pointer.
Eskimo ice cream
The Inuit people of Alaska have a distinct version of ice cream. It's not creamy
ice cream as we know it, but a concoction made from
reindeer fat or tallow, seal oil, freshly fallen snow or water, fresh berries, and sometimes ground fish. Air is
whipped in by hand so that it slowly cools into foam.
They call this Arctic treat akutaq, aqutuk, ackutuk, or
Eskimo ice cream. Akutaq is a Yupik word that means mix
them together.
Here is the link. Nowadays Crisco Oil often substitutes for animal fat.
Here is a picture of Eskimo ice cream.
The original tip is from 1001 Foods You Must Taste Before You Die, an excellent book for reading or browsing.
Two related links I don’t wish to title
They are both about economic growth. One is here and the story involves a sari and the Taj Mahal.
The other is here, from Taiwan ("China fact of the day"?), and the markets in everything version as well. Excerpt:
The reasonably priced food includes curries, pasta, fried chicken and
Mongolian hot pot, as well as elaborate shaved-ice desserts with names
like "diarrhea with dried droppings" (chocolate), "bloody poop"
(strawberry) and "green dysentery" (kiwi). Despite the disturbing
descriptions, the desserts were great. But after seeing curry drip down
a mini-toilet, I may never have that sauce again.
Do read the whole thing, but the bottom line is this:
Every customer sits on a stylish acrylic toilet (lid down) designed
with images of roses, seashells or Renaissance paintings. Everyone
dines at a glass table with a sink underneath. The servers bring your
meal atop a mini toilet bowl (quite convenient, as it brings the food
closer to your mouth), you sip drinks from your own plastic urinal (a
souvenir), and soft-swirl ice cream arrives for dessert atop a dish
shaped like a squat toilet.
I thank Chug and Kurt for the pointers.
Markets in everything
Pork brains in milk gravy (canned).
I thank Yves Smith for the pointer. Yves also points us to a rare cheetah captured on camera.
The countercyclical asset, northern Virginia edition
It is Little Seoul, mostly in Annandale, spilling over into West Alexandria. The number of innovative Korean restaurants continues to increase and they are usually crowded. I love the new place devoted to the many forms of Korean porridge. Seoul Gool Dae Gee Honey Pig on Columbia Pike has the best decor (and the pork neck) around. TodamSoonDooBoo (also known as Tofu House, next to the Giant, straddling 236 and Columbia Pike) has dumpling soup and tofu. The two branches of Shilla Bakery and Le Matin de Paris give Virginia a cafe scene. Much of my eating out is now Korean or in the new Vietnamese places in the Western Saigon interior branch of the Eden Center; either that or Ray's Hell-Burger, Hong Kong Palace, Thai X-ing, or the now-reopened Nava Thai, right next door to the shuttered old branch.
Annandale used to be a nice appendage to the peak places to eat. Now it's the epicenter, the main culinary show, and also the coolest place to hang out.
Addendum: Here is a good article, which mentions Korean food as the next trend to come. Let's hope not.
Battle of the Barbecues, Kansas City
The Kaufmann Foundation brought together many bloggers and many servings of Kansas City barbecue. (Isn't America a great country? I met Mark Thoma for the first time and tomorrow we talk about blogging and the future of the world.) Then we voted, using Borda Point Count. Tim Kane tells me:
Oklahoma Joe's
wins handily. Arthur Bryant's loses handily. Others are close.
(Hmmm … looks like a normal).
Husband’s Day in Iceland
The article opens in this manner:
On Bondadagur, or Husband's Day, the menfolk of Iceland
are spoiled by their wives and girlfriends, who serve them with
traditional delicacies such as ram's testicles and sheep's head jelly,
a recipe for which is handily included in the latest online edition of
Iceland Review, alongside the latest bulletins on the economic meltdown.
It is interesting throughout.
Battle of the (KC) barbecues
We will eat and judge. Thank you all for the earlier suggestions. Also, in the first linked post they are asking for suggestions and questions, help them out if you can!
Markets in everything
I'm afraid to give this one much of a subtitle:
India's Hindu nationalist movement is launching a new soft drink made from cow urine.
The
bovine brew is in the final stages of development by the Cow Protection
Department of the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS), India's biggest
and oldest Hindu nationalist group, according to the man who makes it.
Om
Prakash, the head of the department, said the drink – called "gau jal,"
or "cow water" – in Sanskrit was undergoing laboratory tests and would
be launched "very soon, maybe by the end of this year."
"Don't
worry, it won't smell like urine and will be tasty too," he told the
Times of London from his headquarters in Hardwar, one of four holy
cities on the River Ganges. "Its USP will be that it's going to be very
healthy. It won't be like carbonated drinks and would be devoid of any
toxins."
The drink is the latest attempt
by the RSS – which was founded in 1925 and now claims 8 million members
– to cleanse India of foreign influence and promote its ideology of
Hindutva, or Hindu-ness.
I thank John de Palma for the pointer.
The countercyclical meal plan, Arrow-Hahn-Debreu edition
Will Wilson blogs:
Seattle’s 5 Spot has a new “Blue Plate Special” promotion, with the daily meal priced like this:
recent close of the Dow Jones Industrial Average. If the Dow closes at
8650, then your “square meal” will only cost you $8.65; if it closes at
7875, then you win your meal for a mere $7.87.
There’s a built-in stop-loss, too. They make a limited number of blue plates each night, and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
Kicking the Stimulus
Smokers are three times more likely to kick the habit for at least six months when they are paid up to $750 (£520), a new study has found.
Nearly 900 General Electric workers took part in the test across 85 US sites. The results were published in the New England Journal of Medicine.
GE will launch a similar scheme in 2010 for all US employees, believing it will be cost-effective in the long term.
What is the best food produced en masse?
Ben, a loyal MR reader, asks:
What is the preferable type of food to eat when it is produced en masse? I.e., for what type of food does the quality not diminish significantly when it's produced for a buffet? How much worse is Panda Express from "real" Chinese food vs. Fast Food Mexican from "real" Mexican?
Indian food, produced en masse, sits relatively well, especially the non-meat dishes and the ground meats. It can sit and stew for a long time. Chinese food, which usually should be cooked at high heat and served immediately, wares about the worst. Barbecue can do fine, if it is cooked properly to begin with (not usually the case, however). At Chipotle the carnitas are pretty good and they are cooked sous vide at a distance and then reheated in the restaurant. But the top prize goes to Korean vegetable dishes, many of which are fermented and pickled in the first place. Natasha and I catered our wedding party with Korean vegetables (and a bit more, including some cold meats) with no loss of culinary value.
At first they came for the Irish oatmeal, and no one spoke up…
It is an interesting question whether an administration can be judged by its parting gifts:
In its final days, the Bush administration imposed a 300 percent duty
on Roquefort, in effect closing off the U.S. market. Americans, it
declared, will no longer get to taste the creamy concoction that, in
its authentic, most glorious form, comes with an odor of wet sheep and
veins of blue mold that go perfectly with rye bread and coarse red
wine…
Besides, they said, Roquefort is only one of dozens of European luxury
products that were attacked with high tariffs. The list includes, among
other things, French truffles, Irish oatmeal, Italian sparkling water
and "fatty livers of ducks and geese," which apparently is how
Washington trade bureaucrats say foie gras.
Here is the full and sad story.