Category: Food and Drink
France fact of the day
Consumption of red wine in France has fallen by about 90 per cent since the 1970s, according to Conseil Interprofessionnel du vin de Bordeaux (CIVB), an industry association. Total wine consumption, spanning reds, whites and rosés, is down more than 80 per cent in France since 1945, according to survey data from Nielsen, and the decline is accelerating, with Generation Z purchasing half the volume bought by older millennials.
Here is more from Adrienne Klasa at the FT. You will note these are declines from large numbers:
“With every generation in France we see the change. If the grandfather drank 300 litres of red wine per year, the father drinks 180 litres and the son, 30 litres,” said CIVB board member Jean-Pierre Durand.
In the USA, the Surgeon General is calling for cancer warnings on alcohol (NYT).
Merry Christmas!
Wishing all our readers a wonderful day and New Year!
Is Indian food the world’s best?
From my latest Bloomberg column:
Why is the food so good? I have several overlapping hypotheses, most of them coming from my background as an economist. Interestingly, India’s culinary advantages can be traced to some good and some not-so-good aspects of Indian society.
First, food supply chains here are typically very short. Trucking, refrigeration and other aspects of modernity are widespread, but a lot of supply chains are left over from a time when those were luxuries. So if you are eating a vegetable, there is a good chance it came from nearby. That usually means it is more fresh and tastes better.
The sad truth is that India still has very high rates of food spoilage, especially when food is transported longer distances. The country is making significant progress building out its transportation networks, but in the meantime the American culinary tourist enjoys the best of all worlds: Our purchasing power is high, and we can spend our money eating super-local.
And:
India also has high income inequality. That means there is plenty of cheap labor competing to cook for diners with higher incomes. The “thickness” of the competition leads to innovation and experimentation — there are a lot of restaurants, food stalls, truck stops and the like. It is a buyer’s market. Furthermore, some of India’s best dishes, such as Bengali sweets, are very labor-intensive. Indian desserts that are mediocre in US restaurants receive the proper care and attention in Kolkata.
And:
Then there is the cultural side. India is a “food nation.” When I ask locals which are the best places to eat, which I regularly do, I am repeatedly struck by how many have strong opinions. When everyone is a food critic, standards rise accordingly. It also makes it easy for the visitor to get quality recommendations.
There are further good arguments at the link. In Bangalore I had a superb meal, Kayasth food, by Manu Chandra in Lupa, this was a special menu:
Cochin (Kochi) bleg
What to see, what to do, and where to eat? I thank you all in advance for your suggestions…
Regulating Sausages
In the comments on Sunstein on DOGE many people argued that regulations were mostly about safety. Well, maybe. It’s best to think about this in the context of a real example. Here is a tiny bit of the Federal Meat Inspection Act regulating sausage production:
In the preparation of sausage, one of the following methods may be used:
Method No. 1. The meat shall be ground or chopped into pieces not exceeding three fourths of an inch in diameter. A dry-curing mixture containing not less than 3 1⁄3 pounds of salt to each hundredweight of the unstuffed sausage shall be thoroughly mixed with the ground or chopped meat. After being stuffed, sausage having a diameter not exceeding 3 1⁄2 inches, measured at the time of stuffing, shall be held in a drying room not less than 20 days at a temperature not lower than 45 °F., except that in sausage of the variety known as pepperoni, if in casings not exceeding 1 3⁄8 inches in diameter measured at the time of stuffing, the period of drying may be reduced to 15 days. In no case, however, shall the sausage be released from the drying room in less than 25 days from the time the curing materials are added, except that sausage of the variety known as pepperoni, if in casings not exceeding the size specified, may be released at the expiration of 20 days from the time the curing materials are added. Sausage in casings exceeding 3 1⁄2 inches, but not exceeding 4 inches, in diameter at the time of stuffing, shall be held in a drying room not less than 35 days at a temperature not lower than 45 °F., and in no case shall the sausage be released from the drying room in less than 40 days from the time the curing materials are added to the meat.
The act goes on like this for many, many pages. All to regulate sausages. Sausage making, once an artisan’s craft, has become a compliance exercise that perhaps only corporations can realistically manage. One can certainly see that regulations of this extensiveness lock-in production methods. Woe be to the person who wants to produce a thinner, fatter or less salty sausage let alone who tries to pioneer a new method of sausage making even if it tastes better or is safer. Is such prescriptive regulation the only way to maintain the safety of our sausages? Could not tort law, insurance, and a few simple rules substitute at lower cost and without stifling innovation?
Alcohol estimates
The number of deaths caused by alcohol-related diseases more than doubled among Americans between 1999 and 2020, according to new research. Alcohol was involved in nearly 50,000 deaths among adults ages 25 to 85 in 2020, up from just under 20,000 in 1999.
The increases were in all age groups. The biggest spike was observed among adults ages 25 to 34, whose fatality rate increased nearly fourfold between 1999 and 2020.
Women are still far less likely than men to die of an illness caused by alcohol, but they also experienced a steep surge, with rates rising 2.5-fold over 20 years.
The new study, published in The American Journal of Medicine, drew on data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
The best fesenjan I’ve had in years
Toranj
10861 Lindbrook Dr, Los Angeles, CA 90024
Via Jeff Holmes. And a little space birdy tells me that the best sandwich in LA is Roma Market, in Pasadena.
The culture that is Washington, D.C.
Campaign-finance reports reveal that Republicans overwhelmingly outspend Democrats at every major steakhouse in the city… At the Capital Grille, Republicans have outspent Democrats nearly 13 to 1 so far this election cycle.
That is from Jessica Sidman. Here is the full and interesting article., and an excerpt:
Longtime Capital Grille regular David Safavian remembers the same. But things changed, says the American Conservative Union’s general counsel, as the District became more of a dining destination—and politics became more divisive. “Conservatives tend not to really care about the ‘foodie’ culture as much as Democrats do—we would rather just go have a good steak and a glass of wine,” Safavian says. “Back when the city was more bipartisan, Capital Grille reflected that. As the city has become more polarized, I think Republicans go to more traditional establishments.”
Perhaps in the 1980s and 1990s there was somewhat of a Republican connection to Chinese food, but now that seems to be gone…?
Avian Flu is Bad for Cows
FarmProgress: With a closed herd and all his heifers artificially inseminated — no outside bulls needed — Nathan Brearley was confident his 500-cow dairy farm in Portland, Mich., would be spared from the avian flu strain that’s affecting dairies.
He was wrong. Nearly six months later after an infection on his farm, milk production still hasn’t recovered.
“I was quite surprised. I never saw any other disease this widespread affect the cattle like it did,” Brearley said during a recent webinar on dairy avian flu, put on by the Pennsylvania Center for Dairy Excellence.
…Brearley said the first signs of problems were in April when the SmaxTec boluses in his cows, which keep track of temperature and other health parameters, started sending high-temperature alarms to his phone and computer. Half the herd looked like it was getting sick.
“Looking at data, the average temperature rise was 5.1 degrees above normal,” he said. “Outlying cows were even higher with temperature.”
The cows were lethargic and didn’t move. Water consumption dropped from 40 gallons to 5 gallons a day. He gave his cows aspirin twice a day, increased the amount of water they were getting and gave injections of vitamins for three days.
Five percent of the herd had to be culled.
“They didn’t want to get up, they didn’t want to drink, and they got very dehydrated,” Brearley said, adding that his crew worked around the clock to treat nearly 300 cows twice a day. “There is no time to think about testing when it hits. You have to treat it. You have sick cows, and that’s our job is to take care of them.”
Testing eventually revealed that his cows did indeed contract H5N1. But how they contracted it, he said, is still a mystery.
Brearley said an egg-laying facility a mile and a half away tested positive for H5N1 and had to depopulate millions of birds. The birds were composted in windrows outside the facility, “and I could smell that process.”
The farm averaged 95-100 pounds of milk per head with 4.0% butterfat and strong solids before the outbreak. During the first three weeks of infection, milk production fell to 75 pounds a head and has been slow to recover.
“Honestly, we haven’t recovered since, though my forages have been stable,” Brearley said. “I cannot get back to our baseline again.”
Reproduction was also challenged. Right off the bat, his cows aborted their calves.
And how about this kicker:
He didn’t test his cows until two weeks after the first high temperatures entered his herd, fearing that his milk processor wouldn’t accept his farm’s milk.
Why do I get the feeling that we are sleepwalking?
What is Haitian food like in the United States?
As late as the 1990s, food in Haiti probably was the best in the Caribbean, and it certainly was regarded as such. There were fancy French-Caribbean fusion restaurants in Petitionville with amazing seafood, and there was high quality street and diner-level food in Port-au-Prince. Lambi (conch) was consistently the best I ever have had, and the dish with rice cooked in the juice of those special mushrooms was outstanding — Djon Djon they call it. A simple breakfast with eggs and “combi hash” could be memorable. Griot (with sour oranges) was another option, and once I had the best (small) turkey I ate in my life, “dinde,” as it was called from the French. The food was indeed a reason to visit Haiti, at least if you had outside dollars to spend.
As for poorer Haitians, and there are many of them, eating dirt cookies [bonbon tè], mixed with a bit of fat and salt, is indeed a thing.
Haitian food in the United States can be decent, but it is far inferior. The conch is never truly fresh. The servings are far too carbohydrate heavy, with lots of plantains and rice. The stews can be decent, but there isn’t much variety of flavors. It is worth eating such Haitian food once or twice a year, partly for nostalgia value, but it is not really something I crave. I can recommend the sociology you observe in those restaurants, including their reactions to you.
Maybe Brooklyn is best for Haitian food in this country? Some of the North Miami venues are skimpy on the infrastructure side, and not that many Haitians seem to live in Los Angeles. Maryland has a few decent places, and a few times I had tasty Haitian snacks served at late night Haitian concerts there. Possibly in Florida, but not in Little Haiti, would be another option, as I’ve had good Haitian food in both Tampa and Orlando.
Addendum: The Chris Rufo bounty (supply is elastic!) did yield a video of some Africans barbecuing a cat, or is it rather a chicken?, but so far nothing of the Haitians.
Two missing markets
The London Times, in its Sunday on-line culture section, no longer has a weekly article listing what they think are the best books of the year. Yet they continue to run similar weekly articles for music and film and television.
The books feature has, for me, been the single strongest reason to subscribe to the paper.
Dolcezza, the D:C.-based gelato maker, has replaced its “dark chocolate” with a corrupted and far inferior “dark chocolate fudge,” which I simply do not buy.
The people request their missing markets back!
France frozen croissant fact of the day
In France, frozen products accounted for 24 per cent of all pastries and other sweet baked goods in 2021. In the UK 21 per cent of pastries were frozen, compared with 13 per cent in Spain and 17 per cent in the US, according to research groups Gira and Global Market Insights.
Industry researchers have predicted that sales of frozen baked goods, including both bread and pastries, would increase by 7 per cent a year from 2021-26. They said the baked goods market overall, comprising both fresh and frozen food, would expand by just 1-2 per cent a year.
Here is more from Barney Jopson at the FT. The producers of the frozen products, as interviewed in the piece, claim their outputs can pass a blind taste test.
Why do the servers always want to take our cutlery and plates and glasses away?
I have noticed repeatedly, over the course of many restaurant visits, that my servers want to take away my plates, my glasses, my cutlery, and indeed almost anything else — before I really want to give it up.
The ratio of “they want to take it away too soon” to “they take it away too late” seems to me at least five to one.
Those who know me would not describe me as a lingerer over meals, or a very slow eater. So I do not view this phenomenon as merely my peculiarity, rather the servers often want to take my things away before I am done with them.
In many restaurants the servers seem to put more energy into keeping your table clean than in taking your order promptly in the first place.
How should we model this behavior?
One possibility is that the servers know they will be busier yet later on, so they want to get some of the work out of the way now. Surely that holds in many cases, but still I observe this “server grabbing behavior” in a wide variety of circumstances, including in near-empty restaurants.
Could it be that the restaurant managers give these instructions, hoping it will induce the diners to order further dishes and spend more money?
Another possibility is that the servers feel the need to signal that they are always busy, rather than standing around and looking idle. I can imagine that hypothesis having some truth, but it doesn’t explain the entirety of what I observe.
The most plausible general explanation is that the restaurant managers favor a more rapid turnover of tables than the customers do, and regular plate- and glass-clearing helps to achieve that end. It also creates another “point of contact,” giving the customer the opportunity to ask for the check. Still, you might think ex ante competition to attract diners would moderate this practice more than it does.
I have asked both current and former servers why there is so much emphasis on place-clearing, and usually I receive circular answers, such as “We want to make sure your plates and glasses are cleared away when you are done with them.”
So what is the best way of thinking about this practice?
Why Top CEOs Earn Big Paychecks
CEO compensation at large firms is high, especially in comparison to average worker wages, sparking debates over income inequality. Critics argue that such pay packages are unfair and disproportionate to actual company performance. Proponents contend that high pay reflects productivity and is necessary to attract scarce top talent to large firms. Let’s go to the ticker tape.
On August 12 shares of Starbucks were selling for about $77, a level they had been stable at for some time. On August 13, shares were selling for $94. What changed? On August 13, Starbucks announced that they were hiring a new CEO, Brian Niccol, who had held the top position at Chipotle.
There are some 1,132,800,000 Starbucks share outstanding so hiring Niccol instantly increased the value of Starbucks by just over $19 billion. In comparison, Niccol will be paid $1.6 million in salary, a bonus payment of $10 million and potential equity incentives that could be worth on the order 
of $100 million or more if the stock continues to do well.
No question, Niccol is paid handsomely but it’s only a small percentage of the billions the market estimates he will create for other people, both consumers and investors.
Niccol has had a phenomenal streak as CEO of Chipotle raising the stock price from about $6 to $56. Thus, it wasn’t surprising that on the announcement of his move, Chipotle stock plunged from $56 to $46 (later recovering to around $52).
Using the latter number, the value of Chipotle fell by about $5.5 billion on the day of the Niccol announcement. That’s a remarkable fall given that the number two at Chipotle is probably no slouch. But heh, Kevin Durant doesn’t make quite as much as Steph Curry. (See yesterday’s post on the benefits of inequality!) Last year, Chipotle paid Niccol a total compensation package worth about $22.5 million. Again, a nice pay package but is there any question that Chipotle investors are sorry to see Niccol go?
Note also that the market expects Niccol to raise the value of Starbucks going forward more than he would have raised the value of Chipotle going forward so this move was a net gain for society. It’s important to remember that CEO pay is not just about incentives it’s about allocation.
Bottom line is that in the estimation of people who put their money where there mouth is, Niccol is worth the pay.
Addendum: Don’t forget my previous post in this series from 2013, The Value of a CEO looking at what happened when Ballmer exited Microsoft. Same basic lesson but in reverse! N.B. look at what has happened to Microsoft stock since!
All of this should also be put in the context of the Extreme Shortage of High-IQ Workers which one can also understand as the shortage of talent.
Rampell On Harris’s Economic Policy
Here is the Washington Post’s Catherine Rampell on Harris’s price control policy:
It’s hard to exaggerate how bad this policy is. It is, in all but name, a sweeping set of government-enforced price controls across every industry, not only food. Supply and demand would no longer determine prices or profit levels. Some far-off Washington bureaucrats would. The FTC would be able to tell, say, a Kroger in Ohio the acceptable price it can charge for milk.
…If your opponent claims you’re a “communist,” maybe don’t start with an economic agenda that can (accurately) be labeled as federal price controls.
And here is a primer on Nixon’s price controls announced 53 years ago yesterday. Read Modern Principles for more.