Category: Travel

Monaco on the Marin Headlands

The Dalmation Coast in Croatia, the Amalfi Coast in Italy and Monaco’s coast on the Mediterranean Sea are often found on lists of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. Here are some pictures. Hard not to agree. The fourth picture is of the Marin coastline near San Francisco. It’s also beautiful but is it obviously more beautiful than the other coastlines? Personally, I don’t think so. But one thing is different. Far fewer people are enjoying the Marin coast. Why? Because fewer people live there. Can something be beautiful if there is no one to see it?

There is something to be said for protecting natural wilderness but must we do so on some of the most valuable land in the world?

I agree with Market Urbanism, “Quite simply, we must build Monaco on the Marin Headlands.”

Hat tip to Bryan Caplan who makes the point about beauty in his excellent, Build, Baby, Build.

Croatia

 

Amalfi

Monaco

Marin:

My excellent Conversation with Benjamin Moser

Here is the audio, video, and transcript.  Here is the episode summary:

Benjamin Moser is a Pulitzer Prize-winning writer celebrated for his in-depth studies of literary and cultural figures such as Susan Sontag and Clarice Lispector. His latest book, which details a twenty-year love affair with the Dutch masters, is one of Tyler’s favorite books on art criticism ever.

Benjamin joined Tyler to discuss why Vermeer was almost forgotten, how Rembrandt was so productive, what auctions of the old masters reveals about current approaches to painting, why Dutch art hangs best in houses, what makes the Kunstmuseum in the Hague so special, why Dutch students won’t read older books, Benjamin’s favorite Dutch movie, the tensions within Dutch social tolerance, the joys of living in Utrecht, why Latin Americans make for harder interview subjects, whether Brasilia works as a city, why modernism persisted in Brazil, how to appreciate Clarice Lispector, Susan Sontag’s (waning) influence, V.S. Naipaul’s mentorship, Houston’s intellectual culture, what he’s learning next, and more.

Excerpt:

COWEN: You once wrote about Susan Sontag, and I quote, “So much of Sontag’s best work concerns the ways we try, and fail, to see.” Please explain.

MOSER: This is what On Photography is about. This is what Against Interpretation is about in Sontag’s work. Of course, in my new book, The Upside-Down World, I talk about how I’m not really great at seeing, particularly. I’m not that visual. I’m a reader. I’m a bookworm. Often, when I’ve looked at paintings, I’ve realized how little I actually see. Sometimes I do feel embarrassed by it. You’ll read the label and it’ll be three sentences, and it’ll say like, A Man with a Dog. You’re like, “Oh, I didn’t even see the dog.” You know what I mean?

On these very basic levels, I just think, “Oh, if someone doesn’t point it out to me, I really don’t see.” I think that that was one of the fascinating things about Sontag, that she was not really able to see. She was actually quite terrible at seeing, and this was especially true in her relationships. She was very bad at seeing what other people were thinking and feeling.

I think because she was aware of that, she tried very hard to remedy it, but it’s just not something you can force. You can’t force yourself to like certain music or to like certain tastes that you might not actually like.

COWEN: What was Sontag most right about or most insightful about?

MOSER: I think this question of images — what images do — and photography and how representations, metaphors can pervert things. She had a very deep repulsion to photography. She really hated photography, and this is why a lot of photographers hated her because they felt this, even though she didn’t really say it. She really didn’t trust it. She really thought it was wicked. At the same time, for somebody who had a deficit, I guess you could say, in seeing, she really relied on it to understand the world.

I think that tension is very instructive for us, because now, she already says 50 years ago, “There are all these images. We don’t know what to do with them. We don’t know how to process them.” Forget AI, forget Russian trolls on Twitter. She uses this word I really like, hygiene, a lot. She talks about mental hygiene and how you can clean the rusty pipes in your brain. That’s why I think reading her helped me at least to understand a lot of what I’m seeing in the world.

COWEN: Do you think she will simply end up forgotten?

Again, I am happy to recommend Benjamin’s latest book The Upside-Down World: Meetings with Dutch Masters.

The Screwworm

The Atlantic: Screwworms once killed millions of dollars’ worth of cattle a year in the southern U.S. Their range extended from Florida to California, and they infected any living, warm-blooded animal: not only cattle but deer, squirrels, pets, and even the occasional human. In fact, the screwworm’s scientific name is C. hominivorax or “man eater”—so named after a horrific outbreak among prisoners on Devil’s Island, an infamous 19th-century French penal colony in South America.

For untold millennia, screwworms were a grisly fact of life in the Americas. In the 1950s, however, U.S. ranchers began to envision a new status quo. They dared to dream of an entire country free of screwworms. At their urging, the United States Department of Agriculture undertook what would ultimately become an immense, multidecade effort to wipe out the screwworms, first in the U.S. and then in Mexico and Central America—all the way down to the narrow strip of land that is the Isthmus of Panama. The eradication was a resounding success. But the story does not end there. Containing a disease is one thing. Keeping it contained is another thing entirely, as the coronavirus pandemic is now so dramatically demonstrating.

To get the screwworms out, the USDA to this day maintains an international screwworm barrier along the Panama-Colombia border. The barrier is an invisible one, and it is kept in place by constant human effort. Every week, planes drop 14.7 million sterilized screwworms over the rainforest that divides the two countries. A screwworm-rearing plant operates 24/7 in Panama. Inspectors cover thousands of square miles by motorcycle, boat, and horseback, searching for stray screwworm infections north of the border. The slightest oversight could undo all the work that came before.

A reminder that civilization takes work. Excellent piece by Sarah Zhang. Read the whole thing.

Hat tip: Stone Age Herbalist.

Why do I prefer current airport procedures?

Michael Stack writes me:

“Hi Tyler – you wrote about preferring current airport procedures to pre-9/11 procedures. Do you plan to elaborate on this? I have a hard time understanding why you’d feel that way.

Here is the list I produced – these are guesses as to why you might feel the way you do:

  • Because friends/family can’t meet you at the gate, it reduces crowding in some of the stores, restaurants, and waiting areas.
  • Security imposes a higher cost on travelers which reduces crowding – what are the pricing effects? Is this a transfer from airlines? From travelers?
  • You’re very worried about another terrorist attack and think our security substantially reduces the chance of an attack.

I can’t really think of many other reasons you’d prefer the current approach.”

TC again: My view is fully his third explanation.  Whether we like it or not, people and policymakers respond irrationally to terror attacks on airplanes, or terror attacks using airplanes.  I do think the current procedures stop or discourage some number of idiots, noting they likely would not stop a sufficiently sophisticated attack attempt.  But a lot of criminals are simply some mix of stupid and incompetent or poor on execution.  You don’t want to have attacks on airplanes become any more focal/copycatted than they already are.

I fully get all the “why don’t they just set off a bomb by the passengers waiting to get through security” points, and the like.  I just don’t think that is how it works.  Why don’t school shooters go to playgrounds instead, or wherever?  Maybe someday they will, but for now there is an odd stickiness in the nature of the events.

I don’t doubt that various features of the status quo could be improved, such as more security entry points being open and a better bureaucracy for generating and confirming pre-check privileges.  Some of those improvements, however, might be more rather than less intrusive, such as more spot checks of passengers at security or during boarding.

Many people have objected to the point I made, but I don’t think the benefit-cost analysis on this one is close.  Nor do I see a huge voter or elite demand to return to the pre-9/11 world for airports.

What is the proper policy toward tourists?

That is the topic of my latest Bloomberg column, basically you should charge them fees rather than discourage them through other means>  Here is one excerpt:

By this reasoning, the Japanese decision to raise bullet train prices for tourists is exactly the right approach. In the meantime, the Japanese government, which faces high pension costs, has more money at its disposal. There is no need to resent or otherwise restrict the tourists at all, and indeed I have found the Japanese people to be extremely gracious and helpful to foreigners. Higher prices for tourist train tickets will make it easier for them to stay this way.

If there is any problem with Venice’s five-euros-a-day charge, it is that it is not nearly high enough, given crowding and accumulated wear and tear on the city. How about 50 euros? But with a smile!

The same goes for the bus in Barcelona: Why not raise the fare? Just for tourists. It is easy enough to (partially) enforce this differential treatment with spot checks on the bus line. An alternative or possible complement to this plan is to run more buses to the park, to alleviate congestion. Higher fees for tourists can help pay for them.

Here is an interesting problem:

Amsterdam has a more difficult challenge. Barcelona and Venice have some unique attractions and sites that can be priced at higher levels, with exclusion applied to non-payers. In contrast, for many Amsterdam tourists the attractions are booze, pot and sex, all of which have prices set in basically competitive markets. I’m all for more expensive tickets to the Rijksmuseum, but that might not make much of a difference to Amsterdam’s “party tourism” problem.

Worth a ponder.

South Africa fact of the day

Two economists from the Harvard Growth Lab (Shah and Sturzenegger) estimate that the average transport costs for those who are employed in South Africa is equal to 57% of net wages when time to commute is accounted for.

Here is the whole John McDermott tweet storm, in part that is the spatial legacy from the earlier system of apartheid, and in part from poor public transport systems.  Here is a related blog post.

What I am nostalgic about

With a group of friends I was having a chat about the merits of the current vs. past America.  Battle of the Ancients and Moderns!  I generally favor current times, but not unconditionally.  So I promised them a list of what I missed from the past.  To be clear, these are personal judgments, not claims about net social value.  I’ll also offer comments on features from the past that many miss, but I do not.  Here goes:

1. Visiting Borders in its heyday.  Nowadays I have to go to London to have comparable experiences.

2. That you could just show up at various venues, pay modest prices, and see incredible performers.  For instance I saw Horowitz and also McCartney at his peak.  Leo Kottke at his peak.  Pierre Boulez.  Many more.  Such experiences are hardly gone, but in terms of cultural resonance the earlier times were much better.  How did I fail to go see Miles Davis!?

Similarly, you could just go see Milton Friedman, Kenneth Arrow, Derek Parfit, and many other famous figures.  No current economist or philosopher is comparable in this regard.

2b. Note that in some areas, such as NBA basketball, there are more “must see” players today than in any earlier era.  Or say tech titans.  So I am not favoring the nostalgic perspective per se, but for music, economics, and philosophy the nostalgic perspective on live performance is correct.

3. There were more and better museum art exhibits to see before 9/11.  Much of that has to do with insurance rates and the ease of international agreements.

4. Good seafood was cheap and readily available.

5. Reading the Far Eastern Economic Review in its heyday.

6. Awaiting the arrival of a new issue of the Journal of Political Economy, knowing it would have exciting new ideas.

7. Many, many locations were better to travel to and visit.  Amsterdam is one obvious example.  But by no means is this true for all places, India for instance is better to visit today than before.

8. Hollywood movies used to be better, though global cinema overall is doing fine.

9. Very recently there are too many parts of the world you really just can’t visit, Iran and Russia most notably.

10. Mainstream media was much better, noting I nonetheless would rather have the internet.  Still, I miss the quality of cultural reviews, local news, and several other features of normal newspapers.

11. San Francisco of the 1980s and Miami Beach of the 1990s.

12. So many intellectuals could afford to live in New York City, and indeed Manhattan.  The city was overall more interesting, though worse to live in or to have to deal with.

13. Parking was much easier, even in Manhattan.  I used to just get parking spots, even in the Village or Midtown.  Now I would never bother to look.

14. The emphasis on personal freedom in American popular culture of the 1970s and 1980s.

15. Paperback editions of the classics were so often far superior in earlier times.  Nowadays most of them look and feel like crap.

A few things I have no nostalgia for:

1. I feel America today is overall a higher-trust society, admittedly with the picture being somewhat complex.  American cities certainly are much safer, and most of them look much better.

2. I prefer current airport procedures to those before 9/11.

3. Young people are overall smarter, and arguably more moral.

4. Just seeing white (and sometimes black) people everywhere, except a few cities on the coasts.

5. The seafood issue aside, food in America is obviously much much better.

6. I can’t think of anything in the category of “how people interacted with each other” that I preferred in earlier times.

7. I don’t miss having more snow, quite the contrary.

8. Medical and dental care are far superior, obviously.

What else should be on these lists?

When does provenance justify a consumption experience?

Konstantin emails me a question:

Hey Tyler! You said you tried coffee just once, at a coffee ceremony in an Ethiopian village, as coffee probably originates in Ethiopia.

What else would you try (or do) only due to its provenance?

What else have you tried or done only due to its provenance?

I used to always try the local foodstuffs, no matter what the expected quality, for instance that terrible fermented dish in Iceland.  I guess I have stopped doing this?  (“I’ll just have the beef rendang, please!”  No monkey brains either.  I do however make a point of trying new dishes I think I will enjoy.)  In the case of coffee, I felt it would be rude to refuse.  Plus after all these years I was curious what coffee tasted like.

More generally, I am a fan of consumption experiences tied to what Konstantin calls provenance.  If you are in Japan at the right time of year, it makes sense to walk up Mount Fuji.  The fact that the mountain has a special status in Japanese lore makes the experience more valuable, even if you don’t believe in Japanese lore per se.  It is one way of “connecting” yourself to Japan, and seeing how that connection feels.

When I was younger, I took a cable car in San Francisco, even though I didn’t find the experience an intrinsically valuable one.  Frankly, it bored me, but I also don’t regret doing it.  Think of the underlying model as “trying to approach a native culture from as many different angles as possible.”  You also should try the angles they put forward as focal.  Even though those angles may not in fact be the most relevant or focal ones.  How important are cable cars for understanding San Francisco?  I am not sure, but if they are irrelevant that too is an angle you might try on for size.  And then take off.  When you are done, you can always walk over to the local bookstore.

What should I ask Brian Winter?

Yes I will be doing a Conversation with him.  Here is his bio:

Brian Winter is the editor-in-chief of Americas Quarterly and a seasoned analyst of Latin American politics, with more than 20 years following the region’s ups and downs. He lived in Brazil, Argentina and Mexico as a correspondent for Reuters before taking on his current role in New York, where he is also the vice president of policy for the Americas Society and Council of the Americas. He has been called “the best foreign expert on Brazil of this moment” by GloboNews. Brian is the author of several books including Why Soccer Matters, New York Times bestseller he wrote with the Brazilian soccer legend Pelé; The Accidental President of Brazil, co-authored with President Fernando Henrique Cardoso; and Long After Midnight, a memoir about trying (and failing) to learn to tango in Argentina. He is a regular contributor to television and radio, the host of the Americas Quarterly Podcast and a prolific barbecuer and chefProficient in Spanish and Portuguese, Brian speaks frequently about Latin America’s past, present and future to investors and general-interest audiences. Follow him on Twitter @BrazilBrian

So what should I ask him?

My Conversation with Fareed Zakaria

Here is the audio, video, and transcript.  You can tell he knows what an interview is!  At the same time, he understands this differs from many of his other venues and he responds with flying colors.  Here is the episode summary:

Tyler sat down with Fareed to discuss what he learned from Khushwant Singh as a boy, what made his father lean towards socialism, why the Bengali intelligentsia is so left-wing, what’s stuck with him from his time at an Anglican school, what’s so special about visiting Amritsar, why he misses a more syncretic India, how his time at the Yale Political Union dissuaded him from politics, what he learned from Walter Isaacson and Sam Huntington, what put him off academia, how well some of his earlier writing as held up, why he’s become focused on classical liberal values, whether he had reservations about becoming a TV journalist, how he’s maintained a rich personal life, and more.

Here is one excerpt:

COWEN: Why couldn’t you talk Singh out of his Nehruvian socialism? He was a great liberal. He loved free speech, very broad-minded, as you know much better than I do. But he, on economics, was weak. Or no?

ZAKARIA: Oh, no, you’re entirely right. By the way, I would say the same is true of my father, with whom I had many, many such conversations. You’d find this interesting, Tyler. My father was a young Indian nationalist who — as he once put it to me — made the most important decision in his life, politically, when he was 13 or 14 years old, which was, as a young Indian Muslim, he chose Nehru’s vision of secular democracy as the foundation of a nation rather than Jinnah’s view of religious nationalism. He chose India rather than Pakistan as an Indian Muslim.

He was politically so interesting and forward-leaning, but he was a hopeless social — a sort of social democrat, but veering towards socialism. Both these guys were. Here’s why, I think. For that whole generation of people — by the way, my father got a scholarship to London University and went to study with Harold Laski, the great British socialist economist. Laski told him, “You are actually not an economist; you are a historian.” So, my father went on and got a PhD at London University in Indian history.

That whole generation of Indians who wanted independence were imbued with . . . There were two things going on. One, the only people in Britain who supported Indian independence were the Labour Party and the Fabian Socialists. All their allies were all socialists. There was a common cause and there was a symbiosis because these were your friends, these were your allies, these were the only people supporting you, the cause that mattered the most to you in your life.

The second part was, a lot of people who came out of third-world countries felt, “We are never going to catch up with the West if we just wait for the market to work its way over hundreds of years.” They looked at, in the ’30s, the Soviet Union and thought, “This is a way to accelerate modernization, industrialization.” They all were much more comfortable with the idea of something that sped up the historical process of modernization.

My own view was, that was a big mistake, though I do think there are elements of what the state was able to do that perhaps were better done in a place like South Korea than in India, but that really explains it.

My father was in Britain in ’45 as a student. As a British subject then, you got to vote in the election if you were in London, if you were in Britain. I said to him, “Who did you vote for in the 1945 election?” Remember, this is the famous election right after World War II, in which Churchill gets defeated, and he gets up the next morning and looks at the papers, and his wife says to him, “Darling, it’s a blessing in disguise.” He says, “Well, at the moment it seems very effectively disguised.”

My father voted in that election. I said to him, “You’re a huge fan of Churchill,” because I’d grown up around all the Churchill books, and my father could quote the speeches. I said, “Did you vote for Churchill?” He said, “Oh good lord, no.” I said, “Why? I thought you were a great admirer of his.” He said, “Look, on the issue that mattered most to me in life, he was an unreconstructed imperialist. A vote for Labour was a vote for Indian independence. A vote for Churchill was a vote for the continuation of the empire.” That, again, is why their friends were all socialists.

Excellent throughout.  And don’t forget Fareed’s new book — discussed in the podcast — Age of Revolutions: Progress and Backlash from 1600 to the Present.

The new UAPs report

You will find it here, 45 pp. of text plus lots of footnotes.  Overall it is a nothing burger.  You’ll find plenty of (justifiable) claims that there are no dead bodies, no alien spacecraft have been recovered, no technology is being reverse engineered, there is nothing to Roswell, and so on.  Here is from the executive summary:

AARO found no evidence that any USG investigation, academic-sponsored research, or official review panel has confirmed that any sighting of a UAP represented extraterrestrial technology.

That is certainly true.  What you won’t find in this report is any mention of Nimitz, Gimbal, or any of the other more puzzling cases about observed objects — on multiple sensors with independent verifications — that defy current explanation.  No real discussion of the more serious pilot eyewitness reports (and no, these pilots are not saying they saw aliens, they are reporting they cannot explain what they saw).  On p.26 you will find the concession: “A small percentage of cases have potentially anomalous characteristics or concerning characteristics.  AARO has kept Congress fully and currently informed of its findings.  AARO’s research continues on these cases.

So overall there is no reason to revise whatever your current views might be, at least provided those views were not the crazy ones in the first place.  If anything, perhaps you should do a slight Bayesian update toward believing in a real puzzle, given that in a 45 pp. report the government is not willing to directly explain or even confront the most anomalous cases.

But does he care about on-time performance?

While the 17-year-old does indeed live on trains, he does so entirely legally. And with a surprising amount of comfort.

Lasse travels 600 miles a day throughout Germany aboard Deutsche Bahn trains. He travels first class, sleeps on night trains, has breakfast in DB lounges and takes showers in public swimming pools and leisure centres, all using his unlimited annual railcard.

The self-employed coder technically has no fixed abode and appears to really enjoy his unusual way of life, something which he chronicles regularly on his blog, Life on the Train.

Here is the full story, via John McLennan.  It costs him about ten thousand euros a year.  And he reports:

‘My favourite route leads through the Middle Rhine Valley between Mainz and Bonn. Here the trains always travel very slowly along the river. It’s a beautifully picturesque route that stretches at the foot of the vineyards. The view outside is wonderful.’

I can second that judgment.

Is a $600 a night hotel room better?

Lucy Huber and Alex T. debate that question, and they both seem pretty skeptical.  (I am surprised to see Alex’s view, I might add.)  I would not pay that much for a room, but sometimes when I am invited to events I end up staying in places that I suspect are in that price range, or higher.  I think they have a few big advantages:

1. Location, location, location.  What is a good beach hotel in Miami or Miami Beach these days?  I’m not sure, I don’t even love the beach.  But many people do — the Four Seasons room down there is going for over $1300 a night.  (It is odd to me to pick on $600 a night — in some places that is cheap!)  The best locations in London and Paris are expensive too.  If you have some business appointments, and only two days in Paris, is it so crazy to shell out such money to stay right where you want, so you can sneak into the Louvre during a break?

2. Concierge tickets.  At a very good hotel, the concierge can get you all sorts of reservations and tickets that otherwise would not be available.

3. Swimming pool.  It might be heated, or much better.  The on-site shops can be much better too, which matters for people with less flexible time budgets than mine.  Gyms I find do not vary so much in actual practical quality, though they vary a great deal in attractiveness and general mood.

4. They might have much better business and conference facilities, noting that some very expensive hotels don’t have those at all.

4. The hotel restaurants will be much better (and more expensive of course).  Much better breakfast too, and that is the meal you are least likely to eat out.

5. Some hotels are marvelous architectural landmarks.  I was very impressed by the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah when I visited.  I had only a meal and a tea there, both expensive but worth it.  Google claims “prices from $1,330,” for a room that is, but I suspect the variance of actual price is pretty high.  In any case it ain’t cheap.

6. The beds are more comfortable and the rooms are bigger.

7. The WiFi is less likely to go out, or if there is a problem you will get help more quickly.

8. In Malta only a few hotels have wonderful views.  I wonder what they cost.

So it’s not just status, you genuinely get a lot more for your money.  If you can afford it and have those priorities, that is.

I do, however, have two gripes about very expensive hotels.  First, the staff can be overly solicitous.  The worst version of this is when they want to knock on your door or call you too many times to see how things are going.  I also don’t like how they sometimes reorganize your things, in addition to cleaning up the room.  Do I really need my shoes to be put into the closet?  Second, sometimes the tech-laden shower and room lighting systems are so complicated I find them difficult to operate.  Boo hoo!  Not even a first world problem.  But in those cases perhaps the $400 a night hotel would have been better.

What should I ask Fareed Zakaria?

Here is Fareed’s home page, here is Wikipedia:

Fareed Rafiq Zakaria…is an Indian-American journalist, political commentator, and author. He is the host of CNN‘s Fareed Zakaria GPS and writes a weekly paid column for The Washington Post. He has been a columnist for Newsweek, editor of Newsweek International, and an editor at large of Time.

He was managing editor of Foreign Affairs at age 28, briefly a wine columnist for Slate, and much more.  His new book Age of Revolutions: Progress and Backlash from 1600 to the Present is very classically liberal, and in my terms “Progress Studies”-oriented.

So what should I ask him?